In her groundbreaking work from 1971, Knitting Without Tears, Elizabeth Zimmerman humorously expresses her preference for natural fibers, stating, “For those who are allergic to wool, my heart aches. While synthetics serve as an excellent alternative, they are merely that—an alternative.” Half a century later, it has become increasingly difficult to locate a garment or home textile that isn’t at least partially composed of synthetic materials.
Concurrently, the escalating awareness of the ecological repercussions linked to these predominantly petroleum-based substances has tempered many individuals’ enthusiasm for synthetics and rekindled an age-old appreciation for wool and other animal fibers.
The Wonders of Wool
Wool has been processed into fibers suitable for weaving since ancient civilizations, showcasing its remarkable qualities. Wool boasts insulation properties, is breathable, wicks moisture, is fire resistant, and maintains its shape. In addition to being long-lasting, it is dyeable, biodegradable, and comes in a diverse range of textures and natural colors.
Dyed in the Wool
Maddy Purves-Smith, co-owner and manager of Custom Woolen Mills (CWM, customwoolenmills.com) located near Carstairs, Alberta, ardently promotes natural fibers and “slow fashion.” Her family-owned enterprise employs equipment dating back to the late 19th century to convert fiber into various products, such as carded wool, yarns, bedding, and knitted items.
Although their production is significantly lower than that of large industrial mills, CWM takes pride in its commitment to environmental sustainability and its ability to customize orders. CWM also values the diverse natural hues of sheep, alpaca, and other animal fibers equally when sourcing fleece from farmers, contrasting the common perception of non-white fleece as inferior quality in larger mills.
Conversely, the uniformly white fibers that many large mills aim for are often dyed using methods and chemicals that pose substantial risks to ecosystems and human health. The small selection of dyed yarns available from CWM is hand-dyed with vibrant colors made from local plants.
The Eco-Friendly Alpaca
While sheep’s wool is predominant in yarn shops, Edward Pickering and Shauna Seabrook from Chetwyn Farms (chetwynfarms.com) in Hillier, Ontario, have dedicated their efforts to alpacas.
Alpaca yarn possesses numerous attractive characteristics—it is softer and warmer than sheep’s wool by weight. Additionally, Pickering and Seabrook’s interest in farming and small-scale yarn production stemmed from the sociable and environmentally friendly nature of alpacas.
Alpacas, being natural mountain-dwellers, do not demand lush pastures and thrive on smaller, less fertile plots of land. Interestingly, their lack of upper teeth allows them to graze gently without uprooting grass. “They don’t pull the grass up; they gum it!” Pickering laughs. Another eco-benefit is that alpacas have a designated communal area for their droppings, producing pelletized manure ideal for immediate use as fertilizer.
An Intricate Weave
As with any industry that engages with the natural world for human benefit, textile production is intricate and multi-dimensional. There are numerous areas that warrant deeper investigation, such as the urgent requirement for broader adoption of regenerative farming practices and the potential of newer synthetics derived from recycled materials or utilizing closed-loop manufacturing processes.
Like our food choices, our textile selections can be challenging. Whenever feasible, we should heed Purves-Smith’s insight to “explore the origins of our textiles” and take into account the welfare of the people, animals, and ecosystems involved in our decisions.
This article first appeared in the December 2024 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine.
