For those familiar with oysters, it’s common knowledge that the northern U.S. coastlines are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West receive plenty of accolades.
However, when the conversation turns to Southeast oysters, reactions often include turned noses, pursed lips, and definitive head shakes. “Inferior oysters from warmer waters? Not a chance on my ice-cold platter.” I confess I was among those skeptics.
But a fortunate encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective completely. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I came across a dedicated group of entrepreneurs who are determined to rehabilitate the image of Southern oysters, benefit their communities, and improve the local ecosystem.
I was graciously invited to spend a couple of days working on their farms. Equipped with rubber boots and slathered in sunblock, I enthusiastically made my way to the shores of the Atlantic and Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Experience
The morning is splendid as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young partner, Reid Ballard, speeds us to their leasehold while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura stumbled into oyster farming, thinking, “Why not give it a try?”
“Our family has always enjoyed seafood, so it seemed like a natural path,” Smith explains, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear sky. “And the view from the office can’t be beaten.”
Most oyster farms in the Southeast are situated off-bottom in estuaries, where the tides provide a constant supply of essential nutrients. Floating cages ahead of us house mesh bags filled with oysters at varying growth stages.
Our main task for the day involves harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. The cages are teeming with marine life, abundant with seaweed, crabs, and small fish. Smith remarks, “Our farm has become like an underwater reef.”
We tumble the bags’ contents through a rotating perforated cylinder, sifting out smaller oysters and directing those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller ones will be donated to Oyster River Ecology for local restoration efforts, crucial for maintaining wild oyster populations that are essential for the health of the waters. Smith differentiates: “Cultivation is for eating, while restoration serves the ecosystem.”
This somewhat monotonous task of sorting provides a window to discuss the personal motivations behind this vocation. Ballard shares his insights: “Farming an organism that captures carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat development has illuminated for me the work still needed to protect our environment.”
Smith echoes this sentiment: “Finding a venture that brings joy to people’s lives is incredibly rewarding. Who can resist smiling when enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Adventure
Docked at the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our boat glides over the pristine surface, she shares her longstanding passion for aquaculture, sparked at the age of 14 as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her passion, she states, “I thrive on early mornings on the water, absorbing the sounds and aromas… the ospreys, the dolphins, the manatees surfacing to breathe.”
Back at the dock, her team suits up for work, separating and sorting the oysters; the damaged ones are cast into shallow waters to feed a swarm of fish. Mariano highlights the local benefits her farm brings. “The oysters form an intricate three-dimensional habitat for juvenile species; the farm is a self-sustained ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated job opportunities for our community, benefiting individuals of all ages.”
Facing the Challenges
The industry faces numerous obstacles, with mortality events and intricate regulations being challenging, but the weather remains the most significant challenge. Hurricanes can devastate farms, as Smith recounted when he lost an entire year’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “Persistence, dedication, creativity, resilience, and flexibility are crucial. We simply adapt and persevere.”
Support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director Adrianne Johnson conveys their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hardworking, adaptable, and innovative individuals I’ve ever met. We aim to elevate this incredible, growing sector in the South and encourage everyone to participate. Sample a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, and notice the difference.”
Despite the many hurdles, Ballard from Calusa declares on behalf of his fellow farmers, “I wouldn’t swap this job for any amount of money.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of The Windows Clubs magazine (U.S. edition).
