For anyone familiar with the delights of oysters, it’s clear that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East while praising the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, when the topic of Southeastern oysters arises, there tends to be skepticism—turned noses, pursed lips, and shaking heads. Who would want second-rate oysters from warm waters? I admit, I was one of those skeptics.
But then, a fortuitous meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed everything for me. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs on a passionate mission to revitalize the Southern oyster’s reputation, create economic opportunities for their communities, and improve the local environment.
With warm invitations extended to spend a couple of days at the farms, I eagerly packed my rubber boots and sunscreen, ready to dive into the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, I was greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. His young partner, Reid Ballard, steered us toward their leasehold while Smith recounted how he and his wife Maura accidentally ventured into oyster farming, thinking, “Why not?”
“Seafood runs in our family, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith explains, gesturing to the sparkling waters and the clear skies. “Besides, what’s better than this office?”
In the Southeast, oyster farming typically occurs in estuaries under off-bottom methods, where tides continually replenish nutrients. Floating cages bob on the surface, each housing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
The main objective for the day was harvesting. Yet, bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proved to be quite physically demanding. Various sea creatures clung to the cages: seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish were abundant. “Our farm has become a floating reef,” Smith observes.
The bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, which sorts smaller oysters and directs those ready for harvest. A portion of these smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, to support vital wild populations. Smith elaborates on the distinction: “Cultivation is for consumption, while restoration serves to benefit the environment.”
The somewhat labor-intensive task of cleaning and sorting provides space to discuss the more personal elements of this industry. Ballard shares his passion: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat development has made me aware of the extensive work necessary to maintain and improve our ecosystem.”
Smith sums it up poignantly: “Finding a vocation that brings joy to others is a tremendous privilege. Have you ever seen anyone eating oysters without a smile?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I was welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our boat glided across the clear waters, Nicolette shared her lifelong fascination with aquaculture, stemming from her time as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her joy in this profession. “I cherish early mornings out on the boat, soaking in all the sounds and smells… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she remarks.
Back at the dock, her crew members prepared to sort and separate; damaged oysters were tossed into shallow waters, attracting various fish to feed. Mariano notes the local advantages brought by the farm. “The oysters provide a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; our farm is essentially a mini-ecosystem. Additionally, we have created job opportunities for people within our community.”
Facing the Challenges
While mortality events and complex regulations present their hurdles, the biggest challenge lies in the weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s work to Hurricane Helene. “Persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability are essential. We adapt, find a way through, and keep moving on,” he explains.
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association plays a vital role, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson highlighting their goals: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, innovative, and resilient individuals I know. We aim to promote this growing industry in the South and encourage people to engaged with it. Savor a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, experience the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa articulates the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything.”
This article was first featured in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
