If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, it’s no secret that the northern U.S. coastlines are famous for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West also receive high accolades.
However, when the Southeast’s oysters come into the conversation, many people express skepticism. Warm waters yielding mediocre oysters? Count me out. I must admit, I was once among these critics.
My perception changed dramatically when I discovered Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs focused on revitalizing the Southern oyster’s image, adding value to their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
They generously invited me to spend a few days on the farms. Eager to participate, I donned my rubber boots and applied sunblock before heading out to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
On a gorgeous early morning, I was greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company at South Tampa Bay. With the help of his enthusiastic colleague, Reid Ballard, we journeyed to their leasehold as Smith recounted how he and his wife Maura fortuitously entered the world of oyster farming, thinking, “We could do that!”
“Our family enjoys seafood, so pursuing this venture felt natural,” Smith shares, gesturing at the pristine waters and clear blue skies. “Moreover, the office view is unbeatable.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast is primarily conducted “off-bottom” in estuarine waters, where tides continually refresh the nutrients available. Floating cages dot the water, each housing mesh bags containing oysters at different growth stages.
Our main focus for the day was harvesting. Bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proved physically demanding. Sea creatures surrounded us, with seaweed, crabs, and little fish everywhere. As Smith pointed out, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are rolled through a rotating perforated cylinder, effectively sorting the smaller oysters and guiding those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller ones will be given to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at supporting wild oyster populations essential for maintaining the health of these waters. Smith distinguishes between the two: “Cultivation” serves consumption, while “restoration” benefits the environment.
While scraping and sorting can be laborious, there’s ample opportunity for personal reflection on this lifestyle. Ballard expresses his motivation: “Cultivating an organism that absorbs carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has really made me aware of the remaining efforts needed to keep our environment in check.”
Smith encapsulates the mission beautifully: “It’s a joy and honor to be part of a business that spreads so much positivity in people’s lives. Do you ever see anyone unhappy while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I was welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock along the Indian River Lagoon. As we ventured out over the crystal-clear waters, Nicolette shared how her fascination with aquaculture began at the age of 14, when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree supports her strong passion for this career. “I cherish the serenity of early mornings on the boat, immersed in nature… the sounds of ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team gears up and begins sorting and separating; damaged oysters are tossed back into shallow waters, attracting various fish species to feed. Mariano emphasizes the local advantages of their operation. “These oysters form a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile marine life; the farm has truly become its own ecosystem. We have also provided numerous jobs within the community for people of all ages.”
The challenges
Challenges like mortality events and complex regulations can complicate matters, but weather phenomena pose the most significant threat. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa shared a story about losing a year’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “It requires determination, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We find ways to keep moving forward.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers vital community support. Executive Director Adrianne Johnson shares their vision: “Shellfish farmers are among the most resilient, industrious, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this incredible emerging industry in the South and encourage people to be part of it. Savor a southern oyster, support local farmers, and experience the difference.”
Amid these various challenges, Ballard from Calusa encapsulates the sentiment of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this work for a million dollars.”
This article initially appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of The windows clubs magazine (U.S. edition).
