If you’re familiar with oysters, you likely know that the northern shores of the US are famous for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts of oysters rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West get their fair share of admiration.
Conversely, when the topic shifts to Southeast oysters, the reaction often involves raised eyebrows and disapproving gestures. Warm-water oysters deemed inferior? Count me out of that platter. I’ll admit, I was among those skeptics at one point.
However, an unexpected experience with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, transformed my perspective. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of passionate entrepreneurs. They are on a mission to enhance the reputation of Southern oysters, drive value for their communities, and positively influence the local ecosystem.
After receiving generous invitations to spend a couple of days at the oyster farms, I packed my rubber boots and sunscreen, eagerly making my way to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day 1: Exploring the Gulf
The sun rises beautifully as Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His companion, Reid Ballard, pilots us to their leased waters, where Smith shares that he and his wife Maura accidentally ventured into oyster farming, exclaiming, “Hey, we could do that!”
“Our family enjoys seafood, so it seemed a natural path,” Smith reflects, gesturing at the shimmering waters beneath the clear skies. “Besides, the office view is unbeatable.”
Much of the oyster farming in the Southeast operates “off-bottom” in estuaries, where tidal movements continually refresh the nutrients in the water. Ahead of us, floating cages bob, each housing mesh bags filled with oysters at different developmental stages.
Today’s principal task involves harvesting. Pulling up a cage and removing a flattened bag is more challenging than it seems. Sea creatures cling to the cage, with crabs, tiny fish, and seaweed adorning them. “Our farm resembles a floating reef,” Smith remarks.
The harvested oysters are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts out smaller ones while directing the ready-to-harvest oysters forward. Some of these smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative to bolster wild populations essential for the health of the waters. Smith differentiates: “cultivation serves consumption needs, while restoration benefits the environment.”
This somewhat labor-intensive task of sorting and scraping allows for personal conversations on the lifestyle. Ballard elaborates on his enthusiasm: “Farming an animal that absorbs carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize how much work remains to keep our environment healthy.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “Being involved in a business that brings joy to so many is truly rewarding. Have you ever seen a picture of someone not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day 2: Venturing onto the Atlantic
A dock by the Indian River Lagoon is where Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As our skiff glides over the transparent waters, she shares her deep interest in aquaculture, stemming from her volunteer work at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center when she was just 14. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her enthusiasm, she states: “I adore being on the boat in the mornings, savoring the sounds and scents… from ospreys to dolphins and the occasional manatee surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew prepares to sort and separate; damaged oysters are tossed back into the shallow water, where they attract various fish species. Mariano notes the local benefits derived from the farm: “Our oysters provide a complex three-dimensional habitat for juvenile marine life; the farm embodies its own little ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated numerous jobs within our community for people of diverse ages.”
Facing the Challenges
While compliance with complicated regulations and mortality events can pose significant hardships, the primary challenge stems from the weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa recalls losing an entire year’s effort to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, ingenuity, resilience, and adaptability. We find ways to maneuver around difficulties and press on.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association extends community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goals: “The dedication and innovation displayed by shellfish farmers are commendable. We aim to elevate this emerging Southern industry and welcome everyone to participate. Choose a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and taste the unique difference.”
Despite the hurdles faced, Ballard of Calusa passionately conveys, “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article was first published in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
