For those familiar with oysters, it’s well known that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave over Beausoleils and Wellfleets sourced from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast earn their own accolades.
However, when the oysters of the Southeast are brought up, reactions can vary dramatically, often involving skepticism and disapproval. Oysters from warmer waters? They certainly didn’t belong on my plate filled with crushed ice. I’ll admit, I used to share this sentiment.
But that changed when I had a fortuitous encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. Attending an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine introduced me to a dedicated group of entrepreneurs determined to revitalize the reputation of Southern oysters, foster community benefits, and improve local ecosystems.
Invitations to explore the farms were extended, and equipped with rubber boots and sunscreen, I eagerly set off towards the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the gulf
It’s a stunning morning when Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. Along with his colleague, Reid Ballard, we travel to their lease area. Smith recalls how he and his wife stumbled into the realm of oyster farming, contemplating: “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family has always had a fondness for seafood, making it a natural pursuit,” Smith says while gesturing at the sparkling waters and clear skies. “And honestly, the office view is unbeatable.”
In the Southeast, most oyster aquaculture is conducted “off-bottom” in estuaries where periodic tides replenish nutrients. We navigate through floating cages containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Our main goal for the day is to harvest. Extracting a cage and unbagging a flattened bag proves to be more physically demanding than anticipated. Various marine life clings to the cage structures, including seaweed, crabs, and small fish. Smith mentions, “Our farm has essentially become a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are rolled through a rotating perforated cylinder, effectively sorting smaller oysters from those ready for consumption. Some of the smaller ones will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local initiative focused on restoring wild oyster populations crucial for the health of the waters. Smith clarifies: “cultivation” aims for consumption, while “restoration” is intended for environmental benefits.
This somewhat labor-intensive process allows time for personal reflection. Ballard shares the driving passion behind his work: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has revealed to me the extent of work needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates this sentiment: “Finding a business that positively impacts people’s lives is a true privilege. Do you ever see anyone not smiling when they are eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our boat glides over the clear waters, she shares that her interest in aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at the age of 14. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her passion, she states, “I relish the early morning boat outings, soaking up all the sights and sounds… the ospreys, the dolphins, the manatees surfacing for air.”
At the dock, Crew members begin sorting oysters; damaged ones are discarded back into the shallow waters, where a variety of fish quickly gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the community advantages her farm provides: “The oysters help create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for young marine life; it’s truly a self-contained ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated numerous jobs for locals of all ages.”
The challenges
While weather conditions pose the most significant hurdles, mortality events and complex regulations are also substantial challenges. Hurricanes have devastated these farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s crop due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires perseverance, creativity, determination, and flexibility. We adapt as necessary and keep moving forward,” he explains.
Support for these farmers comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, conveys their mission: “Seafood farmers are among the most industrious, resilient, and inventive individuals I know. We strive to elevate this burgeoning industry in the Southeast and encourage people to engage with it. Try a southern oyster, support local growers, and notice the difference.”
Despite numerous difficulties, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiment shared by fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this work for anything.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
