If you’re even mildly familiar with oysters, you likely know that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East and praise Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, bring up Southeast oysters, and you might provoke a wave of skepticism—people scrunch their noses, purse their lips, and shake their heads in disdain. Oysters from warmer waters? No thanks, especially on my chilled platter. Admittedly, I was among those skeptics.
But then, a fortunate meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perception completely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs passionate about improving the Southern oyster’s reputation, enhancing community benefits, and promoting local environmental health.
They graciously invited me to spend a few days on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I was excited to explore the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: Gulf Adventures
The sun rises gloriously as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young ally, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their leasehold as Smith shares that he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously discovered the concept of oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“Our family has a deep love for seafood, so it felt like a natural path to pursue,” Smith reflects while gesturing to the shimmering waters and clear skies. “And honestly, the office view is unbeatable.”
The majority of oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where the tides constantly refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages ahead contain mesh bags that harbor oysters at various growth stages.
Today, our main focus is on harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. Marine life clings to the cage, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish abundant. As Smith notes: “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef.”
The bags are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder, allowing smaller oysters to be separated and those ready for harvest to be funneled out. Some of the smaller oysters will later be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration project aimed at supporting the wild populations critical to ecological balance. Smith elaborates: “Cultivation focuses on consumption, while restoration prioritizes environmental health.”
The somewhat laborious task of scraping and sorting offers moments of personal conversations about this lifestyle. Ballard shares his motivating passion: “Cultivating an animal that captures carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the continuous efforts needed to maintain environmental cleanliness.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “Finding a business that disseminates positivity into people’s lives is both a pleasure and a privilege. Honestly, isn’t it hard to find a picture of someone not smiling while indulging in oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Insights
I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As our small boat glides across crystal-clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing passion for aquaculture, sparked years ago as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree bolstered her enthusiasm for her career. “I adore being on the boat at sunrise, surrounded by the sounds and scents of nature—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing to breathe.”
At the dock, her team dons slickers and begins the sorting process; damaged oysters are discarded into the shallow waters, where numerous fish gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the numerous advantages the farm brings to the local area. “The oysters form a remarkable vertical habitat for young marine organisms; honestly, the farm is a nuanced ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated various jobs for people in our community.”
The Hurdles
Weather poses the greatest challenges, with hurricanes leading to extensive damage on farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s harvest due to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, ingenuity, resilience, and adaptability. We continually find ways to navigate around these obstacles.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing, “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, innovative, and resilient people I know. We are dedicated to uplifting this promising Southern industry and encourage people to participate. Sample a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and taste the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard at Calusa expresses the sentiment of many farmers, stating, “I wouldn’t exchange this job for a million dollars.”
This piece was initially featured in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. version).
