If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, you’ll know that the northern United States boasts a rich bounty of these famous shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the East Coast’s Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while the West Coast’s Kumamotos and Hama Hamas enjoy a similar level of admiration.
However, the mere mention of Southeastern oysters often provokes skepticism — the notion of subpar oysters from warmer waters seems unappealing to many. I’ll admit, I was once among the critics.
Yet, a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida completely changed my perspective. During an Oyster South event in St. Augustine, I met an enthusiastic group of entrepreneurs dedicated to reviving the image of Southern oysters, enriching their communities, and promoting environmental sustainability.
They graciously invited me to spend a couple of days at the oyster farms, and with rubber boots packed and sunscreen slathered on, I set off towards the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His younger partner, Reid Ballard, steers us toward their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura basically stumbled upon oyster farming and thought, “This could work for us!”
“My family has always loved seafood, so it seemed a natural pursuit,” remarks Smith, gesturing towards the shimmering waters and clear sky. “Besides, it’s hard to beat this office.”
The Southeast primarily utilizes “off-bottom” aquaculture in estuaries, where tides continually refresh water nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages bob in the water, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main focus is harvesting. While hauling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag is quite labor-intensive, the marine life surrounding the cages, including seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish, is abundant. As Smith notes: “Our farm has truly become a floating reef.”
Inside the bags, oysters are sorted in a rotating, perforated cylinder, separating smaller oysters and guiding those ready for harvest. Some of these smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, which aims to bolster the wild populations essential to the ecosystem’s health. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “Cultivation is for consumption, whereas restoration is about the environment.”
This somewhat repetitive process allows for personal reflection. Ballard shares his driving passion: “Cultivating an animal that captures carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat growth has made me aware of the ongoing efforts needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith neatly sums it up: “Discovering a venture that contributes so positively to people’s lives is incredibly fulfilling. Do you ever see anyone frowning when they’re eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
On a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I’m greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff skims across the crystal-clear waters, she shares her long-time enthusiasm for aquaculture, ignited when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. With a Bachelor’s degree grounding her work, she expresses her enjoyment: “I love being on the boat in the early morning, reveling in the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for a breath.”
Back at the dock, her team begins to sort and separate; damaged oysters are discarded into the shallow waters, attracting various fish species to feed. Mariano reflects on the benefits her farm brings to the local area: “The oysters provide a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm is genuinely a self-sustaining ecosystem. We’ve also created numerous jobs for people of all ages within our community.”
The challenges
Dealing with mortality events and navigating complex regulations can pose difficulties, but the weather remains the greatest challenge. Hurricanes can wreak havoc on farms; Smith at Calusa experienced a complete loss of a year’s harvest due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires determination, hard work, innovation, resilience, and adaptability. We simply find a way to keep moving forward,” he explains.
Community backing comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association. Its Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, emphasizes their goal: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this amazing, emerging industry in the South and invite everyone to join us. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and experience the difference.”
Despite various challenges, Ballard from Calusa sums it up for his fellow farmers: “I’d trade nothing for this job.”
This article was first published in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
