For those familiar with oysters, it’s no secret that the northern U.S. coast boasts a variety of exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts often rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas gain acclaim on the West Coast.
However, when the Southeastern oyster is brought up, many react with disdain, dismissing the choice as subpar due to its warmer waters—certainly not worthy of a spot on my ice-filled platter. I confess I was once among these skeptics.
Then, a chance meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, transformed my perspective. During an Oyster South event in St. Augustine, I encountered dedicated entrepreneurs focused on revitalizing the Southern oyster’s reputation while contributing to their communities and the environment.
With generous invitations, I spent a few days immersing myself in farm work. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I excitedly set off for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: On the Gulf
On a picturesque morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their leasehold while Smith shares that he and his wife, Maura, unexpectedly ventured into oyster farming with a resounding “Why not?”
“Our family enjoys seafood, so it was a natural fit,” states Smith, pointing towards the sparkling waters and clear blue skies. “Plus, the office view is unbeatable.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast primarily takes place in estuarine waters, where tides continuously rejuvenate the nutrient content. Floating cages filled with mesh bags housing oysters at different growth stages float alongside us.
Today’s main endeavor involves harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag is surprisingly labor-intensive, surrounded by crabs, seaweed, and tiny fish clinging to the structures. Smith observes: “Our farm functions like an artificial reef.”
The oysters are sorted through a rotating cylinder, which discards the smaller specimens while directing those ripe for harvesting. Smaller oysters are designated for donation to the local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, vital for maintaining the aquatic ecosystem. Smith clarifies the distinction: “Cultivation targets human consumption, while restoration serves ecological needs.”
This somewhat monotonous sorting work paves the way for personal insights into this lifestyle. Ballard expresses his motivation: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat development has made me realize the extensive work necessary to maintain a pristine environment.”
Smith beautifully encapsulates it: “Finding a vocation that infuses positivity into so many lives is an exceptional gift. Have you ever seen anyone unhappy while savoring oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
I arrive at the dock on the Indian River Lagoon where Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish welcomes me. As our boat glides over the crystal-clear waters, she shares how her passion for aquaculture began at 14 during a volunteering stint at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Holding a B.S. degree, she enjoys every moment spent in her aquatic realm. “I cherish those early mornings on the boat, absorbing all the natural sights and sounds—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
At the dock, her crew gears up to begin sorting; any damaged oysters are discarded into the shallow water, drawing a flurry of fish eager to feed. Mariano elaborates on the positive effects of the farm on the community. “The oysters create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm indeed functions as an independent ecosystem. It also generates employment opportunities for individuals of varying ages in our community.”
Challenges Ahead
Faced with mortality events and complex regulations, the primary obstacle remains the unpredictable weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith’s operations at Calusa endured a significant setback due to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We simply adapt and continue our journey,” he remarks.
Much-needed support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, where Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking and innovative I know. We aim to elevate this incredible, developing sector in the South, encouraging everyone to partake. Savor a Southern oyster, back a local farmer, and notice the difference.”
Despite the various hurdles, Ballard at Calusa echoes the sentiment of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for any amount of money.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Clubs magazine (U.S. version).
