If you’ve ever had a chance to sample oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their delicious shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas capture the hearts of West Coast lovers.
However, bring up southeastern oysters, and you will likely see a collective grimace accompanied by raised eyebrows. Oysters from warmer waters seen as inferior? Not a chance! I’ll admit I was among those skeptics.
But everything changed for me when I tasted Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the reputation of Southern oysters, generating local value, and enhancing environmental health.
I was graciously invited to spend a couple of days on their farms. So, equipped with rubber boots and sunscreen, I made my way to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
On a glorious morning in South Tampa Bay, I was greeted by Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company. His colleague, Reid Ballard, ferried us to their water lease as Smith shared the serendipitous beginnings of their oyster farming venture. “My family has always been seafood lovers, so this seemed like the perfect pursuit,” he explained, gesturing at the stunning scenery. “Plus, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming is conducted in estuarine waters, favoring “off-bottom” setups where tides consistently replenish nutrients. Ahead, floating cages bob in the water, each filled with mesh bags containing oysters at different growth stages.
Harvesting is today’s main activity. Lifting a cage and extracting a flat bag proves to be labor-intensive, with marine life clinging to the cages, including seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. Smith notes, “Our farm has essentially become a floating reef.”
The contents of each bag are processed through a rotating, perforated cylinder, separating smaller oysters from those that are ready to be harvested. The smaller ones will be donated to a local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to help sustain the crucial wild populations. Smith makes a distinction: “Cultivation” is for human consumption, while “restoration” benefits the ecosystem.
This sometimes monotonous process allows for personal reflections. Ballard shares the motivation behind his work: “Creating an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the ongoing work needed to maintain a clean environment.” Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “Finding a venture that spreads positivity is truly rewarding. Have you ever seen a frown on someone while they’re enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I was welcomed by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our small boat glided over the crystal-clear waters, Nicolette shared her passion for aquaculture, which sparked during her teenage years as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her enthusiasm for the field. “I relish being out on the water in the morning, absorbing all the sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she expressed.
Back at the dock, her team began the process of sorting and cleaning; damaged oysters were tossed back into the shallow waters, attracting various fish. Mariano notes the ecological advantages provided by the farm: “Our oysters create remarkable three-dimensional habitats for young marine creatures; the farm is indeed its own ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve generated numerous jobs for our local community.”
The Challenges
While weather conditions are the primary hurdle—especially hurricanes that can devastate oyster farms—Smith from Calusa indicated that mortality events and complicated regulations also present their fair share of challenges. Regarding resilience, he said, “It demands continuous effort, innovation, and adaptability. We strive to navigate through setbacks and keep moving forward.”
Community support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, articulates their goals: “Shellfish farmers are incredibly hardworking, resilient, and innovate in ways I haven’t seen before. We are dedicated to uplifting this promising industry in the south, and we invite everyone to join us—sample a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and truly taste the difference.”
Despite the obstacles, Ballard from Calusa expresses fervently, “I wouldn’t exchange this work for anything.”
This article was initially featured in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
