For those familiar with oysters, it’s well-known that the northern US coastlines are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West also earn high praise.
However, when the discussion shifts to oysters from the Southeast, many wrinkle their noses and shake their heads. Oysters from warmer waters? No thanks, not on my chilled platter. I must admit, I once shared this skeptical view.
That was until I encountered Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which introduced me to a surprising realm of flavors. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met dedicated entrepreneurs on a mission to elevate the Southern oyster’s image, foster community growth, and benefit local ecosystems.
With generous invitations, I spent several days immersed in the farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I was eager to explore the waters of the Atlantic and Gulf.
Exploring the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “We could do that!”
“My family has a love for seafood, so pursuing this path made sense,” Smith says, indicating the beautiful waters and clear skies. “And honestly, the scenery is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in estuaries, where tides supply fresh nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages house mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
The day’s main agenda involves harvesting. Retrieving a cage and extracting a bag proves a physically demanding task, surrounded by a lively marine ecosystem. Smith comments, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The bags are processed in a rotating cylinder, effectively sorting the smaller oysters from those ready for harvest. The smaller ones will be allocated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, which is crucial for maintaining healthy wild oyster populations. “Cultivation supports consumption, while restoration aids the environment,” Smith clarifies.
This meticulous sorting process allows an opportunity to delve deeper into their motivations. Ballard expresses his passion: “Nurturing an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitats has illuminated how much work remains to safeguard our environment.”
Smith succinctly conveys the essence of their work: “It’s such a joy and privilege to be part of a business that enhances people’s lives. Have you ever seen anyone not smile while eating oysters?”
Discovering the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we navigate the clear waters, she shares that her fascination with aquaculture began at 14 as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. With a Bachelor of Science under her belt, Nicolette relishes her career: “Being out on the boat at dawn, enjoying all the sights and sounds—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees—is remarkable.”
Back on the dock, her team gears up to sort the oysters, discarding damaged ones into the shallow water where various fish gather. Mariano notes the local impact of the farm: “The oysters provide a diverse habitat for young marine life; it functions uniquely as its own ecosystem. Our operations have also generated numerous jobs in the community for people of all ages.”
Facing Obstacles
Challenges like mortality events and complex regulations can complicate operations, but the weather remains the greatest hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith from Calusa lost an entire year of work to Hurricane Helene. “Our work demands persistence, creativity, adaptability, and resilience. We find ways to keep moving forward,” he states.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, led by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, supports local farmers: “The dedication and resilience of shellfish farmers are exceptional. We aim to promote this burgeoning industry in the South and encourage people to participate. Sample a southern oyster, invest in a local farmer, and taste the difference.”
Despite numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses his commitment: “I wouldn’t trade this role for any sum of money.”
This piece was originally featured in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
