For those familiar with oysters, it’s clear that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast receive similar acclaim.
Yet, when Southeast oysters are brought into the conversation, many react with skepticism, crossing their arms at the thought of inferior shellfish from warmer waters. I must admit, I was once among the skeptics.
However, an unexpected encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, providing economic benefits to their communities, and improving local ecosystems.
I received warm invitations to spend a few days working directly on the farms. Equipped with rubber boots and sunscreen, I eagerly ventured into the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
The day begins beautifully as I’m greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. Reid Ballard, his enthusiastic partner, steers us toward their leasehold. Smith reveals that he and his wife Maura happened into the oyster farming world with a casual observation: “Hey, we could do that!”
“Our family has always been passionate about seafood, so it was a natural pursuit,” Smith says, gesturing towards the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Not to mention, the office view is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs off the bottom in estuarine regions where nutrient-rich tides benefit growth. We find ourselves amidst floating cages, each housing mesh bags containing oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves physically demanding. The cages teem with marine life, including seaweed, crabs, and small fish. “Our farm has become a floating reef,” comments Smith.
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating cylinder that sorts smaller oysters while directing those ready for harvest. The smaller oysters are donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative aimed at bolstering wild populations crucial for ecological balance. Smith clarifies the distinction: “cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” benefits the ecosystem.
This somewhat monotonous yet essential task lends itself to personal reflections. Ballard shares his motivation, stating, “Growing an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has made me more aware of the extensive efforts required to maintain a pristine environment.”
Smith encapsulates this sentiment perfectly: “Finding a business that brings joy to people is incredibly rewarding. Have you noticed anyone frowning while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
As I arrive at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I’m greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide over the clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, having started as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her enthusiasm for her work. “There’s nothing quite like being on the boat in the early morning, soaking in the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew gears up and begins the process of sorting and assessing oysters; damaged specimens are thrown back into the shallow waters, attracting diverse fish species. Mariano underscores the local benefits of the farm, stating, “The oysters form an incredible three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm truly plays host to its own ecosystem. Furthermore, we’ve generated numerous jobs for community members of all ages.”
The challenges
While mortality events and regulations present their own sets of challenges, weather remains the utmost concern. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s work to Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We just adapt and persevere,” Smith explains.
Support for the community comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association. Its Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, emphasizes their commitment: “Shellfish farmers embody hard work, resilience, and innovation. We aim to promote this evolving Southern industry and encourage everyone to join in. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and savor the difference.”
Despite numerous challenges, Ballard of Calusa echoes the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this work for a million dollars.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
