For those familiar with oysters, it’s well-known that the northern U.S. coast is famous for its mouthwatering shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about East Coast Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while the West Coast’s Kumamotos and Hama Hamas enjoy similar acclaim.
However, when the conversation shifts to the Southeastern oysters, many react with skepticism—warm water oysters deemed inferior? That’s not something I would include on my platter of crushed ice. To be forthright, I once shared this dismissive perspective.
My outlook changed after a delightful discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During the Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I came across a dedicated group of entrepreneurs devoted to enhancing the image of Southern oysters, supporting their communities, and improving local ecosystems.
With inviting offers to spend a few days at the farms, I donned my rubber boots and slathered on sunblock in eager anticipation of my adventure in the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Experience
I was warmly welcomed by Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company on a stunning early morning in South Tampa Bay. Along with his colleague, Reid Ballard, we ventured out to their leased waters, with Smith sharing how he and his wife, Maura, unexpectedly discovered oyster farming and thought, “Hey, we could do that!”
“Growing up, my family adored seafood, so it felt like a natural path,” Smith explains, gesturing to the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, it’s hard to beat this office view.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming involves “off-bottom” methods in estuaries where tidal movements continuously refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages line the water, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various developmental stages.
Our main task for the day is harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flat bag proves to be a vigorous endeavor. The cage structures are alive with marine life, as seaweed, crabs, and small fish populate the area. “Our farm resembles a floating reef,” Smith points out.
The bags are sorted in a rotating perforated cylinder that separates the smaller oysters while funneling the harvest-ready ones. Any smaller oysters will be given to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster the native populations crucial for the ecosystem’s health. Smith explains the distinction: “cultivation” is intended for consumption, while “restoration” aims to support the environment.
The laborious task of sorting provides space for personal revelations. Ballard shares his motivation: “Cultivating an animal that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and encourages habitat development has shown me how important it is to keep our environment pristine.”
Smith summarizes the essence: “Finding a business that positively impacts people’s lives like this is a true privilege. Have you ever seen anyone frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Encounters
On the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide across the pristine waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing interest in aquaculture, starting as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree informs her passion for this field. “There’s nothing quite like being out on the water at dawn, taking in the sights and sounds… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew gears up to separate and sort the oysters; any damaged oysters are returned to the shallow waters, where various fish feast. Mariano speaks on the local advantages of the farm, stating, “The oysters construct a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for young species; our farm truly is a self-sustaining ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve created numerous jobs in our community for individuals of all ages.”
The Challenges of Oyster Farming
While navigating regulations and mortality events can pose challenges, weather remains the most significant hurdle. Storms like hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith shared that one year’s efforts were destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “This work demands resilience, creativity, persistence, and adaptability. We just figure out how to navigate through obstacles and keep moving forward,” he stated.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides community support, and their Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, expresses their goal: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hardworking and innovative folks I know. We aim to elevate this incredible emerging Southern industry and invite everyone to participate. Try a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and experience the difference.”
Despite the challenges, Calusa’s Ballard asserts, “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. version).
