If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, it’s no secret that the northern shores of the United States are famous for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast and extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, bring up the topic of oysters from the Southeastern region, and you might witness disapproving reactions: wrinkled noses, pursed lips, and shaking heads. Inferior oysters from warmer waters? Not on my platter of crushed ice. I admit, I was once among those who thought that way.
But then a chance meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida changed my perception entirely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a group of dedicated entrepreneurs committed to enhancing the Southern oyster’s reputation, fostering community development, and improving the local ecosystem.
After receiving generous invitations, I spent a few days working at the oyster farms. Armed with rubber boots and a layer of sunblock, I eagerly headed toward the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
The morning is stunning as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife stumbled upon oyster farming and thought, “Why not give it a try?”
“My family has always loved seafood, so diving into this seemed reasonable,” Smith explains, gesturing toward the gleaming waters and cloudless sky. “Besides, the workspace is hard to beat.”
Much of the oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where tidal movements continuously refresh the water’s nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages bob on the surface, containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main task is harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag is no easy feat. The cages are teeming with marine life, including seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. As Smith remarks, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder, separating the smaller oysters from those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to the local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to help sustain wild populations critical to the health of these waters. Smith clarifies the distinction: “cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” serves ecological purposes.
This somewhat tedious process of sorting allows time for discussions about personal motivations in this field. Ballard expresses his passion: “Raising an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat development has opened my eyes to the ongoing work needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “Finding a business that spreads so much joy is a wonderful privilege. After all, when do you see pictures of people not smiling while they eat oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As our small boat glides over the crystal-clear water, she shares her long-time fascination with aquaculture, which began as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree supports her deep passion for her career. “I love being out on the water in the early morning, absorbing all the sounds and scents…the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew gets to work, sorting and separating oysters; damaged ones are discarded into shallow waters where various fish species flourish. Mariano highlights the local impact of the farm. “The oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; our farm is truly its own ecosystem. We’ve generated many job opportunities in our community for individuals of all ages.”
The obstacles
While mortality events and intricate regulations present challenges, the weather emerges as the primary concern. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa had an entire year’s work obliterated by Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, hard work, ingenuity, resilience, and adaptability. We always find a way to tackle challenges and keep moving forward.”
Support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to uplift this remarkable emerging industry in the south and invite everyone to participate. Try a southern oyster, support local farming, and taste the difference.”
Despite various hurdles, Ballard from Calusa speaks for many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
