For those familiar with oysters, the northern shores of the US are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while the West showcases the delightful Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when the conversation shifts to oysters from the Southeast, you may encounter skepticism—disdainful expressions and dismissive gestures abound. Who would want second-rate oysters from warmer waters? I’ll admit, I was once among the skeptics.
My perspective transformed after discovering Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, supporting their local communities, and improving the environment.
Invited to spend a couple of days working on the oyster farms, I donned my rubber boots and slathered on sunscreen, eagerly heading toward the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: On the Gulf
It’s a stunning morning as Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. Reid Ballard, his enthusiastic partner, navigates our boat to their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously explored the idea of oyster farming and thought, “We could do this!”
“Our family has a deep love for seafood, so pursuing this path felt natural,” Smith points out, signaling to the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Plus, the scenery certainly beats an office cubicle.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries where tides continuously renew the water’s nutrients. Floating cages bob on the surface, each containing mesh bags with oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s mission revolves around harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves quite labor-intensive. The surrounding structure teems with aquatic life, from seaweed to crabs and small fish. Smith remarks, “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are processed in a rotating cylindrical sorter, separating smaller oysters while sending those ready for harvesting down a different path. Many of these smaller oysters are donated to a local restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, to nurture wild populations that are essential for the aquatic ecosystem’s health. Smith elaborates, “‘Cultivation’ aims for consumption, while ‘restoration’ focuses on ecological balance.”
This somewhat monotonous task of cleaning and sorting leaves ample room for reflection on the lifestyle involved. Ballard shares his driving passion: “Farming an organism that sequesters carbon, purifies water, and fosters growth has opened my eyes to the ongoing work needed to sustain our environment.”
And Smith succinctly captures the sentiment: “Experiencing a business that brings joy to people’s lives is fulfilling. Do you ever see anyone enjoying oysters without a smile?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At the Indian River Lagoon dock, I’m welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide over the pristine waters, Mariano shares her lifelong fascination with aquaculture, rooted in experiences as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center when she was just 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree enriches her joy in this profession. “I cherish those early mornings on the boat, immersing myself in the sounds and scents of nature… the calls of ospreys, the playful dolphins, and the manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team dons gear and begins the process of separating and sorting; any damaged oysters are tossed back into the shallow waters where fish swarm in to feast. Mariano reflects on the advantages her farm brings to the local area: “Our oysters establish a remarkable vertical habitat for many young organisms; the farm is genuinely a self-contained ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated several jobs for a diverse range of people in our community.”
The Challenges
Farmers face challenges such as mortality events and intricate regulations, but weather poses the most significant threat. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa experienced a catastrophic loss due to Hurricane Helene, which destroyed an entire season’s work. “It demands consistency, effort, creativity, and the ability to adapt. We navigate around challenges and persist,” he states.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson articulating their goal: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most diligent, resilient, and creative individuals I’ve encountered. Our objective is to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South and encourage participation. Try a Southern oyster, support local producers, and taste the distinct flavors.”
Despite the hurdles faced, Ballard of Calusa speaks for his colleagues: “I wouldn’t give up this work for anything.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Club magazine (US edition).
