If you’ve had any exposure to oysters, you’ll recognize that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Oyster lovers rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast while praising the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when the topic shifts to the Southeast’s oysters, many react with disdain—cold shoulders and skeptical expressions abound. Low-quality oysters from warmer waters? Not on my ice-filled platter. I must admit, I was once among those skeptics.
But a chance experience with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida transformed my perspective. Attending an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine introduced me to a group of passionate entrepreneurs dedicated to rehabilitating the Southern oyster’s reputation, boosting community value, and improving the local environment.
They graciously invited me to spend a couple of days on their farms, so armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I excitedly journeyed to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: Exploring the Gulf
On a picturesque early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. With his enthusiastic colleague Reid Ballard at the helm, we head to their farming area. Smith reflects that he and his wife Maura essentially stumbled into oyster farming, exclaiming, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family enjoys seafood, making this a reasonable venture,” adds Smith, gesturing to the shimmering waters and clear skies. “And the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Most oysters harvested in the Southeast are cultivated in estuaries, where tidal actions continuously supply water with nutrients. Nearby, we see floating cages housing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main mission is to harvest. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. Surrounding the cages are various marine creatures, from seaweed to crabs, with tiny fish darting about. “Our farm now resembles a floating reef,” notes Smith.
The harvested bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates the smaller oysters from those ready to be harvested. The smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative aimed at boosting wild populations critical for environmental health. Smith explains the distinction: “cultivation” feeds people while “restoration” benefits the ecosystem.
The repetitive work of cleaning and sorting provides an opportunity for personal insights from the farmers. Ballard shares his passion: “Cultivating species that sequester carbon, clean the water, and create habitats has made me acutely aware of the ongoing efforts needed to preserve our environment.”
Summing it up, Smith adds, “Running a business that brings so much joy to people’s lives is a true privilege. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic Coast
I am greeted dockside on the Indian River Lagoon by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide across the crystal-clear waters, Nicolette shares her childhood interest in aquaculture, ignited when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree supports her passion for the field. “Being on the boat in the early morning, absorbing all the sounds and scents—from ospreys to dolphins and manatees—is exhilarating,” she conveys.
On returning to the dock, her team prepares to sort and categorize the oysters—those that are damaged are discarded into the shallows, where a multitude of fish gather to feast. Mariano discusses the positive impact of the farm. “Oysters create a robust three-dimensional vertical habitat for younger marine life; the farm is genuinely a distinct ecosystem. We’ve also been able to generate various jobs in our local community for people of all ages.”
The difficulties
Mortality events and complex regulations present significant challenges, yet the biggest obstacle lies in the weather. Hurricanes can devastate the farms; Smith at Calusa recalled losing an entire year’s output due to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We just navigate through or around the obstacles and persevere,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goal: “The farmers who raise shellfish are some of the most tenacious, resourceful, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to uplift this amazing emerging industry in the South and encourage everyone to participate. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and taste the difference.”
Despite the numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa reflects his fellow farmers’ sentiments: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
