Those familiar with oysters know that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts adore the East Coast Beausoleils and Wellfleets while praising the West Coast’s Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, bring up oysters from the Southeast, and the response is often one of disdain—warm water oysters deemed inferior? Not on my ice platter. I must admit, I used to share this sentiment.
Then I stumbled upon Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida, which changed my perspective. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs who aim to improve the Southern oyster’s reputation, provide value to their communities, and benefit the local ecosystem.
I received warm invitations to spend a few days working on their farms. So, with rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I set off to explore the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the Gulf
It’s a stunning morning as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young companion, Reid Ballard, drives us to their farming site while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously came across the idea of oyster farming and decided, “Hey, we should try that!”
“Our family has a deep appreciation for seafood, making it a logical venture,” Smith explains, gesturing towards the sparkling waters and sunny skies. “Additionally, the work setting is incomparable.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming is done off the bottom in estuaries, where tides renew nutrients consistently. Floating cages bob ahead of us, each filled with mesh bags containing oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main objective is to harvest. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be challenging. Sea creatures cling to the cage structures—seaweed, crabs, and small fish abound. Smith remarks, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The harvested contents are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates the smaller oysters while funneling out those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration project, to aid wild populations essential for the ecosystem’s health. Smith distinguishes between “cultivation,” which is for human consumption, and “restoration,” which benefits the environment.
This somewhat monotonous process of scraping and sorting allows for insights into the personal side of farming. Ballard speaks passionately about his work: “Cultivating an animal that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and encourages habitat growth has made me acutely aware of how much effort is required to maintain and improve our environment.”
In summary, Smith states, “Finding a business that brings joy and positivity to others is a true honor. Have you ever seen anyone frowning while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I’m welcomed by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As our skiff glides over the clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing passion for aquaculture, ignited by volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at the age of 14. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her passion, she adds, “I cherish early mornings on the water, savoring the sounds and scents—the ospreys, the dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew dons their rain gear to sort through the oysters; damaged ones are tossed into shallow waters where various fish species gather to feed. Mariano highlights the local impact of her farm: “The oysters provide an incredible three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; it’s effectively its own ecosystem. We’ve also generated a variety of jobs in our community catering to all age groups.”
The hurdles
Facing mortality events and complex regulations can be challenging, but weather, particularly hurricanes, poses the greatest threat. Smith at Calusa recalls having an entire year’s effort decimated by Hurricane Helene. “It requires a great deal of persistence, creativity, grit, and flexibility. We navigate the obstacles and keep pressing forward.”
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association bolsters the community, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their purpose: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I’ve encountered. We aim to uplift this emerging industry in the South and encourage others to engage with it. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and enjoy the difference.”
Despite the various challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for any amount of money.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
