If you have any familiarity with oysters, it’s likely that the northern shores of the United States come to mind, celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts often rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East while praising the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, bring up Southeast oysters, and you might encounter skepticism—an eye roll, a pursed lip, or a disapproving shake of the head. Inferior oysters from warmer waters? Count me out of that crushed ice platter. Admittedly, I was once among the doubters.
Then, a chance meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs passionately working to revitalize the reputation of Southern oysters, create community value, and improve the local ecosystem.
I was graciously invited to spend a couple of days working on the farms. With rubber boots packed and sunblock on hand, I made my way to the waters of both the Atlantic and the Gulf.
First Day: On the Gulf
On a beautiful early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, swiftly navigates us to their leasehold as Smith shares how he and his wife Maura came to the idea of oyster farming with a simple epiphany: “Why not us?”
“My family loves seafood, so it felt like a natural choice,” Smith explains, gesturing to the sparkling water and clear skies. “And honestly, the office view is unbeatable.”
Most of the oyster farming in the Southeast is done “off-bottom” in estuaries where the tides provide a constant influx of nutrients. In our sight are floating cages, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
The main task for today is harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. The cages teem with marine life: seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish abound. As Smith observes, “Our farm resembles a floating reef.”
The oysters from the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, sorting the smaller oysters and delivering those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be given to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, essential for maintaining wild populations crucial for the ecosystem’s health. Smith differentiates between the two: “cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” benefits the environment.
As we engage in the somewhat repetitive task of cleaning and sorting, we delve into personal stories. Ballard shares his motivation: “Cultivating an animal that sequesters carbon, purifies water, and supports habitat development has made me realize the extensive work still needed to keep our environment clean.”
And Smith sums it up perfectly: “Discovering a vocation that adds joy to people’s lives is an absolute honor. Have you ever spotted someone not smiling while enjoying an oyster?”
Second Day: On the Atlantic
At a dock by the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we skim over the pristine waters, she shares her lifelong enthusiasm for aquaculture, sparked when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. With a Bachelor of Science in hand, her passion aligns with her profession. “I relish being out on the water early in the day, taking in all the sights and sounds—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team begins the process of separating and sorting; any damaged oysters are tossed into shallow waters, where a variety of fish gather to feed. Mariano highlights the local advantages of her farm. “Oysters provide a unique three-dimensional habitat for juvenile marine life; we’ve effectively created a mini-ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated numerous job opportunities for community members of all ages.”
The Hurdles
Dealing with mortality events and navigating complex regulations can be challenging, but weather poses the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate oyster farms; Smith at Calusa experienced a complete loss of a year’s work due to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We adapt and forge ahead,” he shares.
Support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are incredibly hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals. We strive to elevate this burgeoning Southern industry and encourage people to participate. Savor a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, and experience the variance.”
Despite numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa articulates the sentiment shared by many farmers: “I wouldn’t swap this job for anything.”
This article was originally featured in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
