If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, you’ll recognize that the northern shores of the US are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about East Coast varieties like Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while West Coast fans cherish Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, the Southeast’s oysters often face skepticism, eliciting scrunched noses and furrowed brows at the thought of warm-water varieties. I must admit, I was once among those skeptics.
That changed when I fortuitously tried Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. My perspective was further transformed at an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, where I met enthusiastic entrepreneurs striving to revitalize the Southern oyster’s reputation, provide economic benefits to their communities, and improve local ecosystems.
With open arms, they invited me to spend a few days at their farms. Equipped with rubber boots and generous amounts of sunscreen, I eagerly made my way to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the gulf
On a beautiful morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me as I arrive at South Tampa Bay. His young colleague, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously ventured into oyster farming, exclaiming, “Why not?”
“My family is passionate about seafood, so it felt like a natural path to take,” Smith notes, indicating the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Plus, the work environment here is incredible.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast takes place off-bottom in estuarine areas where tides enrich the waters with nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages bob, each containing mesh bags with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. The cage is teeming with sea life, including seaweed, crabs, and small fish. “Our farm has become quite the floating reef,” Smith observes.
The oysters are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates the smaller oysters from those ready for harvest. Many of the smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative supporting vital wild oyster populations. Smith distinguishes between the two approaches: “cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” aims for environmental benefit.
The slightly monotonous work of cleaning and sorting provides a moment for personal insights. Ballard conveys his motivations, stating, “Nurturing an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and encourages habitat development has opened my eyes to the ongoing efforts needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith summarizes the rewarding nature of this work succinctly: “Finding a job that brings joy to people’s experiences is a true privilege. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling with an oyster in hand?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock by the Indian River Lagoon, I’m greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our small boat glides across the crystal clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing enthusiasm for aquaculture, which began as a 14-year-old volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree enhances her professional joy in this field: “I cherish being on the water in the morning, soaking in all the sounds and scents… from ospreys to dolphins and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew prepares for sorting and inspecting; damaged oysters are tossed back into shallow waters where eager fish gather to feed. Mariano appreciates the local benefits her farm provides: “The oysters create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for young marine life; our farm truly represents its own ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve established various jobs for community members across different age groups.”
Challenges Faced
While navigating mortality events and complex regulations can be challenging, unpredictable weather remains the greatest trial. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa experienced an entire year’s yield destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “It demands adaptability, persistence, creativity, and hard work. We always find a way to move past obstacles and continue.”
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association bolsters these efforts, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the most innovative, resilient, and hardworking individuals I’ve encountered. Our goal is to elevate this burgeoning industry in the south and encourage everyone to get involved. Support a local farmer, taste a southern oyster, and see the difference it makes.”
Despite numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa reflects the spirit of the farming community: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for anything.”
This article was initially published in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
