If you’re at all familiar with oysters, you might know that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East and extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, bring up oysters from the Southeast, and you might find some turning up their noses and shaking their heads. Oysters sourced from warmer waters are often unfairly dismissed. I confess, I was among those skeptics.
Then, a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, transformed my outlook. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met dedicated entrepreneurs on a mission to revitalize the reputation of Southern oysters, generate economic value for their communities, and improve local ecosystems.
I received warm invitations to spend a few days working on the farms. Eagerly donning rubber boots and slathering on sunscreen, I set out for the enticing waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
On a gorgeous early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young partner, Reid Ballard, transports us to their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife, Maura, accidentally ventured into oyster farming and exclaimed, “Why not?”
“My family enjoys seafood, so it felt like a natural path to follow,” Smith notes, gesturing to the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, this view beats any office.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast is conducted “off-bottom” in estuaries, where nutrient-rich tides continuously refresh the waters. Ahead, floating cages bob, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main focus is harvesting. Bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. The cages teem with life, surrounded by seaweed, crabs, and small fish. As Smith points out, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The bags are emptied into a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts out smaller oysters while directing those ready for harvest to the side. Some of the smaller ones will be donated to a local conservation initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering the wild populations that are essential for the ecosystem’s health. Smith highlights: “Cultivation feeding people, restoration aids the environment.”
This labor-intensive process affords ample time for personal reflection. Ballard shares the commitment that drives him: “Raising an animal that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has revealed the ongoing effort needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith concludes: “Finding a business that adds so much positivity to people’s lives feels like a privilege. Have you ever seen anyone eating oysters who isn’t smiling?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I arrive at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff navigates the clear waters, Nicolette shares her lifelong passion for aquaculture, sparked at age 14 as a volunteer with the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her joy in her chosen career. “I cherish the early mornings on the water, enjoying the sounds and scents… from ospreys and dolphins to manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team dons rain gear and starts sorting; damaged oysters are thrown back into the shallow waters, attracting a frenzy of feeding fish. Mariano highlights the local impact of their work: “Our oysters provide a remarkable vertical habitat for young organisms; the farm truly is its own little ecosystem, and we’ve created numerous jobs for our community members.”
The challenges
Mortality events and intricate regulations present their challenges, but weather remains the greatest concern. Hurricanes can severely damage farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s yield to Hurricane Helene. “It demands tenacity, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We find ways to overcome and continue,” he says.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides crucial support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson stating their goal: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hardworking, adaptable, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this amazing emerging industry in the South and invite people to get involved. Experience a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and savor the difference.”
Despite the array of obstacles, Ballard from Calusa reflects the sentiments of his peers: “I wouldn’t change this job for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
