If you’ve ever sampled oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern United States boasts a reputation for exceptional shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about East Coast varieties like Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while their West Coast counterparts, including Kumamotos and Hama Hamas, are equally celebrated.
However, when it comes to oysters from the Southeastern region, many turn their noses up, dismissing them as inferior due to the warmer waters. Cold-water mollusks are what they prefer, and I must admit, I was among those skeptics.
But everything changed when I tasted Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. My perspective was broadened at an Oyster South event in St. Augustine, where I met fervent entrepreneurs devoted to enhancing the reputation of Southern oysters, adding value to their communities, and improving local ecosystems.
With their kind invitation, I spent a few days immersing myself in life on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and slathered in sunblock, I ventured into the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, I am met by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. His young partner, Reid Ballard, takes us to their leasehold as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family adores seafood, which made this pursuit a natural fit,” Smith remarks while gesturing at the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Plus, you can’t beat the office view.”
The majority of oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in estuaries, which feature “off-bottom” cultivation that benefits from the nutrient-rich tides. We encounter floating cages, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters in various stages of development.
Our focus today revolves around the harvesting process. Heaving a cage and extracting the flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. The structures attract an array of marine life, including seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. As Smith points out, “Our farm has become akin to a floating reef.”
The oysters are then processed through a rotating perforated drum that sorts the smaller oysters while channeling those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller ones are destined for a local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, which aims to support the wild oyster population, crucial for maintaining water health. Smith distinguishes between the terms: “cultivation” pertains to consumption, whereas “restoration” is about environmental health.
While performing the laborious tasks of scraping and sorting, there is ample opportunity to delve into the personal motivations behind this work. Ballard expresses his dedication: “Farming an animal that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize how much effort is still needed to ensure our environment remains pristine.”
Smith synthesizes these sentiments perfectly: “Finding a vocation that brings such joy to people’s lives is a true privilege. Honestly, do you ever see anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At the Indian River Lagoon dock, Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As we glide over the crystal-clear waters, she shares how her passion for aquaculture started when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. Her formal education has enhanced her love for her work. “I cherish being on the boat early in the morning, soaking in the ambiance from the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she says.
Back at the dock, her crew suits up to begin sorting; any damaged oysters are tossed into shallow waters where a flurry of fish gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the local impact of their farm. “The oysters create an incredible vertical three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; our farm truly functions as an ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve generated several jobs for community members of all ages.”
The challenges
While weather-related challenges like hurricanes can devastate a season’s work, pestilence and regulatory hurdles can also pose significant obstacles. Smith from Calusa recalls a year when Hurricane Helene destroyed their entire crop. “It requires determination, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We adapt and keep moving forward,” he states.
Community backing comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, stresses their goal: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals out there. We aim to empower this growing industry in the South and encourage people to engage with it. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and experience the flavor difference.”
Despite the myriad challenges, Ballard from Calusa articulates the sentiment of his peers: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for anything else.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
