For anyone with even a slight familiarity with oysters, it’s well-known that the northern shores of the US are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. East Coast enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while West Coast lovers sing the praises of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when it comes to oysters from the Southeastern region, there tends to be skepticism, often met with raised eyebrows and pursed lips. Warm water oysters deemed inferior? Not on my plate of ice. I confess that I was once among the skeptics.
All that changed after a chance experience with Shark Bite oysters hailing from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered an enthusiastic group of dedicated entrepreneurs aiming to revitalize the image of Southern oysters, generate economic benefits for their communities, and enrich the local environment.
Invitations to engage for a couple of days on the farms were graciously extended. So, with rubber boots and plenty of sunscreen ready, I set off for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: Exploring the Gulf
The morning is stunning as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasehold as Smith shares that he and his wife, Maura, stumbled into oyster farming with a simple idea: “Why not give it a try?”
“Our family has always loved seafood, so it felt like a natural path,” Smith points out, gesturing towards the shimmering waters and clear skies. “Additionally, the office views are hard to match.”
In the Southeast, most oyster cultivation takes place “off-bottom,” in estuarine environments where tides regularly refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages ahead hold mesh bags with oysters at various growth stages.
The main focus today is harvesting. Retrieving a cage and extracting a flattened bag requires significant effort. Various marine life clings to the cage structures, with crabs, seaweed, and tiny fishes all around. “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef,” Smith points out.
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating mesh cylinder that separates smaller oysters while guiding those ready for harvest. Smaller oysters will be donated to the Oyster River Ecology project, assisting the local wild populations critical to maintaining healthy waterways. Smith clarifies the distinction: “cultivation” is for human consumption, while “restoration” serves ecological purposes.
This seemingly monotonous task of sorting provides ample opportunity to delve into the personal motivations behind this lifestyle. Ballard expresses his dedication: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and enhances habitat has made me aware of the work necessary to keep our environment thriving.”
Summing it up, Smith adds, “Finding a business that brings joy to so many is both a privilege and a joy. Have you ever seen someone not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: Adventuring on the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish warmly greets me. As our boat glides through the crystal-clear waters, she shares that her fascination with aquaculture began at 14 while volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Coupled with her Bachelor of Science degree, her passion fuels her professional path. “I adore being on the water early in the morning, relishing the sounds and aromas—the ospreys, dolphins, and the sight of manatees surfacing for air.”
Once back at the dock, her crew begins the process of separating and sorting; any damaged oysters are returned to the water, where schools of fish gather to feed. Mariano highlights the local advantages of the farm: “The oysters provide a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile marine life; it’s really its own little ecosystem. We’ve also been able to generate jobs for our community across various age groups.”
The Hurdles
Dealing with mortality events and navigating complex regulations can prove challenging, but weather conditions remain the greatest adversary. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s harvest to Hurricane Helene. “It requires endurance, diligent work, creativity, flexibility, and determination. We find a way to adapt and keep moving forward,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, represented by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, lends support to the community. Johnson mirrors their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I’ve met. We aim to elevate this remarkable emerging industry in the South and welcome everyone to join us. Try a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, and savor the difference.”
Despite the many hurdles faced, Ballard from Calusa expresses a sentiment shared by his peers: “I wouldn’t exchange this work for anything else.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
