Anyone who has sampled oysters knows that the northern shores of the US are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about East Coast varieties like Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while the West Coast offers the much-lauded Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when the subject turns to Southeast oysters, reactions are often dismissive. Warm water oysters deemed inferior? That’s not what one aims to find on their chilled platter. I must admit, I was once among the skeptics.
My perspective dramatically shifted after a fortuitous experience with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida. At an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine, I encountered a devoted network of entrepreneurs committed to rehabilitating the Southern oyster’s reputation, creating local value, and contributing positively to the environment.
I was graciously invited to spend a few days working on the oyster farms. Equipped with rubber boots and ample sunscreen, I was eager to immerse myself in the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
First Day: Gulf Adventures
The morning is radiant as Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. With his young companion, Reid Ballard, piloting us to their leasehold, Smith shares that he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously found themselves in oyster farming, thinking, “We can do that!”
“My family enjoys seafood, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith says, gesturing towards the sparkling waters beneath a cloudless sky. “Besides, this office is hard to beat.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast employs an “off-bottom” method within estuaries, continually replenished by tides that nourish the water. Ahead of us, floating cages are visible, each containing mesh bags with oysters at various growth stages.
The focus for today is on harvesting. Hoisting one cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. The structures are alive with seaweed, crabs, and small fish. As Smith points out: “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, segregating the smaller oysters and filtering those ready for harvest. Some smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at helping the wild populations that are crucial to the ecological balance. Smith highlights the distinction: “Cultivation is about consumption; restoration is about enhancing the environment.”
The somewhat repetitive task of scraping and sorting opens opportunities for personal reflections on this lifestyle. Ballard shares that his motivation lies in “raising an organism that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has revealed to me how much effort remains to maintain our environment’s cleanliness.”
In summary, Smith states, “It’s a joy and privilege to find a business that contributes so much positivity to people’s lives. Have you ever seen someone not grinning while enjoying oysters?”
Second Day: Atlantic Insights
On the dock at the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides across the pristine waters, Nicolette shares that her fascination with aquaculture began at fourteen when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. With a Bachelor of Science in hand, she’s delighted in her vocation. “I adore being on the boat in the early hours, absorbing the symphony of nature—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back on the dock, her crew dons slickers to start separating and sorting; damaged oysters are tossed back into shallow waters where schools of fish gather to feast. Mariano emphasizes the local advantages of her farm. “These oysters create a spectacular vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; our farm truly presents itself as an independent ecosystem. Not to mention, we have generated numerous jobs in our community for people of all ages.”
The Hurdles
While mortality events and complex regulations pose significant challenges, the weather remains the primary adversary. Hurricanes devastate the farms; Smith from Calusa lost an entire year’s work to Hurricane Helene. “It demands perseverance, hard work, creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We just navigate around the issues and persevere,” he shares.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides essential community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expressing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I’ve encountered. Our goal is to elevate this exhilarating emerging industry in the south and encourage others to be involved. Try a southern oyster, support local farmers, and relish the difference.”
Despite the numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa embodies the spirit of his peers: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for anything, not even a million dollars.”
This article was first published in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Clubs magazine (US version).
