If you’ve dabbled in the world of oysters, you’re likely aware of the acclaim surrounding the northern shores of the US, celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the Eastern region, while those from the West extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when the topic of Southeastern oysters arises, reactions often include raised eyebrows and dismissive gestures. Warm-water oysters considered second-rate? Absolutely not on my platter of crushed ice. I’ll admit, I used to fall into that skeptical camp.
But everything changed when I had the unexpected pleasure of tasting Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a devoted group of entrepreneurs committed to reviving the Southern oyster’s image, boosting their communities, and improving local ecosystems.
With warm invitations, I spent a few days working on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and plenty of sunscreen, I enthusiastically set out for the waters of both the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
It’s a gorgeous morning as Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His young partner, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasehold, while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura serendipitously ventured into oyster farming, saying, “Hey, we could do that!”
“Our family adores seafood, making this a logical pursuit,” Smith explains, gesturing to the sparkling water and cloudless sky. “Plus, the workspace is unbeatable.”
Most of the oyster aquaculture in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where tides continuously refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages bob in the water, holding mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main focus is on harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a compressed bag proves to be quite physical. The structure is alive with sea creatures, from seaweed to crabs and tiny fish. As Smith observes, “Our farm resembles a floating reef now.”
Inside the bags, oysters are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts them, allowing those ready for harvest to be funneled out. Smaller oysters are destined for donation to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, helping wild populations vital for water health. Smith clarifies, “cultivation” is aimed at consumption, whereas “restoration” supports the ecosystem.
The somewhat laborious task of scraping and sorting provides a moment to discuss the personal motivations behind this work. Ballard shares his enthusiasm: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, purifies water, and encourages habitat growth has made me aware of all that remains to be done to protect our environment.”
Summing it up, Smith states, “Discovering a business that spreads so much joy to people’s lives is an honor. Have you ever seen a picture of someone not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As our skiff glides across the pristine waters, Nicolette recounts her fascination with aquaculture, which began at 14 when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Armed with a Bachelor of Science degree, she revels in the joys of her chosen profession: “I adore being out on the boat in the early morning, enjoying the sounds and scents… the ospreys, the dolphins, and the manatees surfacing for air.”
Once back on the dock, her team dons slickers and begins sorting. Damaged oysters are returned to the shallow waters, where various fish species gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the positive impacts her farm has on the local environment: “The oysters foster an incredible vertical three-dimensional habitat for young organisms; the farm indeed acts as its own little ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated several job opportunities in our community for individuals of all backgrounds.”
Challenges Faced
While navigating mortality events and intricate regulations can be challenging, the weather remains the farmer’s greatest adversary. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith of Calusa shared that an entire year’s harvest was lost to Hurricane Helene. “It requires tenacity, ingenuity, hard work, resilience, and adaptability. We find a way to adapt and push forward,” he remarks.
Community backing comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, articulates their mission: “Shellfish farmers embody some of the hardest working, most determined and innovative individuals imaginable. We aspire to elevate this remarkable growing industry in the south and encourage everyone to engage with it. Sample a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and truly experience the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa speaks on behalf of his fellow farmers, stating, “I wouldn’t trade this vocation for any amount of money.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
