Anyone familiar with oysters knows that the northern U.S. coastline is famous for its mouthwatering shellfish delicacies. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, as well as Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, bring up Southern oysters, and you’re likely to see skepticism. Warm waters yield second-rate oysters? Not on my ice tray, thank you. I’ll admit: I was once among the skeptics.
That changed when I stumbled upon the Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs who are focused on changing perceptions of Southern oysters, benefiting their communities, and improving local ecosystems.
I gratefully accepted an invitation to spend a few days working at the farms. Armed with rubber boots and generously applied sunscreen, I set off for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
First Day: Gulf Adventures
The sun rises beautifully as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife stumbled into oyster farming with a casual, “We could do that!”
“Our family loves seafood, so this felt like a natural endeavor,” Smith notes, gesturing to the stunning landscape. “And you can’t beat the office view.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where regular tidal movements replenish nutrient supplies. Ahead, floating cages bob gently, containing mesh bags filled with oysters at varying stages of growth.
Our main focus today is harvesting the oysters. Pulling up a cage and retrieving a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. The cage structures host a variety of marine life, with seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish swimming around. As Smith observes, “Our farm functions like a floating reef now.”
The oysters in the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, filtering out the smaller oysters and channeling those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to support the wild oyster populations essential for the health of these waters. Smith articulates the distinct roles: “cultivation” focuses on consumption, while “restoration” is aimed at environmental health.
This somewhat tedious task of cleaning and sorting allows for personal insights about this lifestyle. Ballard shares what motivates him: “Cultivating an animal that captures carbon, cleans the water, and fosters habitat growth has shown me the extensive work still needed for a clean environment.”
And Smith encapsulates the feeling: “Running a business that brings joy to others is truly a privilege. Seriously, do you ever see a picture of someone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Second Day: Atlantic Insights
Docked at the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide out over the crystalline waters, Nicolette shares that her passion for aquaculture began as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her love for the field. “There’s nothing quite like being on the water at dawn, immersed in the ambiance of nature… hearing the ospreys, catching glimpses of dolphins, and watching manatees surface for air.”
Back at the dock, her team puts on rain gear and begins separating and sorting. Damaged oysters are tossed back into the shallow waters, enticing various fish species to swarm around. Mariano highlights how the farm benefits the local environment. “These oysters create an incredible vertical habitat for juvenile organisms—truly, the farm operates as its own small ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve provided numerous jobs for community members of all ages.”
Overcoming Challenges
Dealing with mortality events and complex regulations can be challenging, but weather poses the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s worth of work due to Hurricane Helene. “It demands perseverance, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We adapt and persevere,” he states.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides support to the community, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expressing their goal: “Shellfish farmers embody resilience and innovation. We aim to champion this budding industry in the South and encourage people to get involved. Support local farmers by trying southern oysters and tasting the difference.”
Despite these numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses his gratitude: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This piece was first featured in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
