Anyone familiar with oysters knows that the northern regions of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Oyster lovers rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while they also commend Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, the mention of Southeastern oysters often evokes skepticism, with many dismissing them as inferior due to the warmer waters. These second-rate oysters? You wouldn’t find them on my ice-filled platter. I will admit, I was once among the skeptics.
That changed following a delightful discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine, I encountered an enthusiastic group of dedicated entrepreneurs striving to elevate the status of Southern oysters, provide benefits to their communities, and improve the local ecosystem.
I received warm invitations to spend a few days working on the oyster farms. So, with rubber boots packed and sunblock applied, I was eager to dive into the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: On the Gulf
The sun rises beautifully as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His companion, Reid Ballard, pilots us towards their lease, as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura accidentally ventured into oyster farming, thinking, “We could do that!”
“Seafood has always been a family favorite, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith shares, gesturing to the sparkling waters and clear sky. “The view from the office is unbeatable.”
Most Southeastern oyster farming occurs in estuaries, where tides continuously replenish the waters’ nutrients. Ahead of us, we can see floating cages filled with mesh bags containing oysters at varying growth stages.
Our main task today is harvesting. Bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. Sea creatures cling to the cage structures, with an abundance of seaweed, crabs, and small fish. According to Smith, “Our farm now resembles a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, sorting the smaller oysters from those ready for harvesting. Some of the smaller ones will be sent to a local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering the wild populations essential to these waters’ health. Smith clarifies the distinction: “cultivation” focuses on consumption, while “restoration” focuses on environmental health.
This somewhat monotonous task of cleaning and sorting offers time for personal sharing. Ballard expresses his motivation: “Growing an animal that absorbs carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the urgency of maintaining a clean environment.”
And Smith emphasizes, “Finding a profession that impacts people’s lives positively is incredibly rewarding. Seriously, who doesn’t smile when they eat oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides across the pristine waters, she shares how her fascination with aquaculture began at 14, as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. A Bachelor of Science degree further enriches her passion for the trade. “I adore being out on the water at dawn, immersed in the sounds and scents of nature… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team dons rain gear to start sorting; damaged oysters are tossed into the shallow waters, attracting various fish species. Mariano notes the benefits their farm brings to the community: “Oysters foster a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm acts as its own mini-ecosystem. We’ve also created diverse job opportunities for people of all ages.”
The Trials Faced
While navigating complicated regulations and mortality events can be tough, the greatest challenge remains the weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa faced a complete loss of a year’s crop due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires tenacity, hard work, resourcefulness, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We simply find a way to overcome and persist,” he reflects.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers crucial community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson sharing their objectives: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We’re keen to elevate this dynamic industry in the South and invite everyone to be part of it. Try Southern oysters, support your local farmers, and taste the difference!”
Despite the multitude of obstacles, Ballard from Calusa encapsulates his colleagues’ sentiments: “I wouldn’t trade this issue for anything.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
