For those who appreciate oysters, the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the smooth Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast hold a special place in their hearts.
However, mention the oysters from the Southeast, and you’ll often encounter skepticism; a disdainful sniff, a tight-lipped expression, or a hesitant shake of the head often follows. Oysters from the warmer waters? Not on my ice-filled platter! Admittedly, I was once among the doubters.
All of that changed when I had a fortuitous encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I became acquainted with a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to changing the perception of Southern oysters, providing valuable contributions to their communities, and improving local ecosystems.
They generously invited me to spend time working on their farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I set off toward the Atlantic and Gulf waters with enthusiasm.
Day one: On the Gulf
The morning is splendid as Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their farm, while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura came upon the idea of oyster farming quite by accident, thinking, “We could do that!”
“Seafood has always been my family’s favorite, so it made sense,” Smith expresses, as he gestures to the stunning blue waters and sunny skies. “And who wouldn’t love an office view like this?”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuary waters, where nutrients are replenished by the waves. Floating cages ahead of us contain mesh bags with oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main activity is harvesting. Lifting up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a labor-intensive endeavor. The cages attract various marine life, including seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. As Smith points out, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The oysters are sorted and cleaned through a rotating perforated drum, separating the smaller ones, which will be funneled out and some donated to a local restoration organization, Oyster River Ecology. Smith clarifies: “Cultivation is for eating; restoration is for the ecosystem.”
This repetitive process provides an opportunity for deeper conversation about the lifestyle. Ballard reveals his motivation: “Farming an animal that captures carbon, cleans the water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the extent of work needed to conserve our environment.”
Smith succinctly sums it up: “Discovering a profession that spreads joy is such a delight. Have you ever noticed people not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we cruise over the transparent waters, she shares her lifelong intrigue with aquaculture, which began at age 14 as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science lays a solid foundation for her passion. “There’s nothing quite like being on the water in the early morning, experiencing the sounds and scents… the ospreys, playful dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she reminisces.
Upon returning to the dock, her team dons rain gear and starts the process of sorting; any damaged oysters are tossed into the shallow waters, attracting various fish that quickly swarm to feed. Mariano reflects on the community positives stemming from the farm’s activities. “The oysters establish a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for young marine life; the farm truly functions as its own ecosystem. We’ve also generated numerous jobs for locals of varying ages.”
The Challenges
While facing challenges like mortality events and intricate regulations can complicate the process, unpredictable weather remains the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate farms, as Smith at Calusa experienced when an entire year’s crop was wiped out by Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility,” he explains. “We just adapt and keep moving forward.”
Community backing from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association shines through, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals out there. Our mission is to elevate this remarkable and growing industry in the South and encourage folks to get involved. Taste a southern oyster, support our farmers, and appreciate the difference.”
Despite facing numerous obstacles, Ballard from Calusa states, “I wouldn’t trade this profession for any amount of money.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
