If you have a casual interest in oysters, you are likely aware that the northern regions of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West receive similar acclaim.
However, when the conversation shifts to Southeastern oysters, reactions often include disdain—noses wrinkle, lips tighten, and heads shake. Second-rate oysters from warmer waters? Not a chance on my platter of crushed ice. I confess, I used to share that sentiment.
But then, a fortuitous taste of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, transformed my perspective. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I uncovered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs focused on rehabilitating the Southern oyster’s reputation, adding local value, and improving environmental conditions.
I received warm invitations to spend a few days at the farms. With rubber boots on and sunscreen applied, I was ready for an adventure on the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: Exploring the Gulf
On a beautiful early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His associate, Reid Ballard, steers us to their lease, while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura inadvertently ventured into oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“My family adores seafood, so it felt like a natural progression,” Smith explains, gesturing towards the shimmering waters and clear skies. “Besides, the office view is unbeatable.”
Much of the Southeast’s oyster farming takes place above the bottom, in estuaries where the tides continually refresh the water’s nutrients. We observe floating cages filled with mesh bags—each containing oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. The cages are surrounded by vibrant sea life, including seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. “Our farm is like a floating reef now,” remarks Smith.
The bags’ contents are passed through a rotating sieve, which separates smaller oysters from those ready for harvest. Smaller oysters will be given to a local restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, to boost wild populations crucial to the ecosystem’s health. As Smith elucidates, “cultivation” aims for consumption, while “restoration” supports the environment.
This somewhat laborious task offers a chance to delve into the personal motivations behind this work. Ballard expresses his driving passion: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has shown me how much more effort is needed for environmental sustainability.”
Smith sums it up beautifully: “Finding a business that spreads positivity in people’s lives is an incredible pleasure. Do you ever see anyone frowning while eating oysters?”
Day Two: Visiting the Atlantic
I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock along the Indian River Lagoon. As we glide over the crystal-clear waters, Nicolette shares her lifelong fascination with aquaculture, stemming from her days volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her passion for her occupation. “Being out on the boat at dawn, enjoying the sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air—is pure bliss,” she reflects.
Back at the dock, her crew gets to work, extracting and sorting oysters; any damaged ones are returned to the shallow waters, attracting swarms of different fish species. “Our oysters create a dynamic three-dimensional habitat for young marine life; the farm is indeed its own ecosystem. Plus, it has generated numerous jobs within our community across various age groups,” Mariano notes.
The Obstacles
Factors such as high mortality rates among oysters and complex regulations can pose significant challenges, but the weather remains the gravest issue. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa shared how an entire year’s work was wiped out by Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We find alternate solutions and keep moving forward,” Smith explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides vital community support, as Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the most diligent, resilient, and inventive people I know. We aim to elevate this remarkable, emerging industry in the South and welcome others to participate. Try a southern oyster, support our farmers, and enjoy the difference.”
Despite numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa reflects the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t exchange this work for any amount of money.”
This article was first featured in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Club magazine (U.S. edition).
