If you’re familiar with oysters, you likely know that the northern U.S. coastlines are famous for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West are equally celebrated.
However, when Southeastern oysters are brought up, many people react with skepticism, scrunching noses and pursing lips. Subpar oysters from warmer waters? Not on my ice-cold platter! I confess: I was once among the dissenters.
My perspective dramatically shifted after an unexpected introduction to Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the Southern oyster’s reputation, benefiting their local communities, and improving environmental conditions.
With warm welcomes, I was invited to spend a few days working on the farms. Ready with my rubber boots and slathered in sunblock, I headed to the shorelines of the Atlantic and Gulf.
Day one: On the Gulf
On a lovely early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their lease area while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously ventured into oyster farming, saying, “Why not give it a try?”
“My family adores seafood, so it made sense to explore this,” Smith explains, waving toward the shimmering waters and clear skies. “Plus, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Much of oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuarine waters, where the tides continuously replenish essential nutrients. Floating cages on the surface hold mesh bags with oysters at various growth stages.
Harvesting is today’s main task. Lifting a cage to retrieve a flattened bag is surprisingly taxing. Many aquatic creatures cling to the cage structure, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish abundant. “Our farm has turned into a floating reef now,” Smith observes.
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates smaller oysters, directing those that are ready for harvest. Small oysters are donated to the local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to support wild populations essential for the ecosystem’s health. Smith clarifies the distinction: “cultivation” is meant for consumption, while “restoration” serves environmental purposes.
The somewhat monotonous task of cleaning and sorting provides an opportunity to delve into personal insights. Ballard shares his motivation: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, cleanses water, and encourages habitat creation has enlightened me to the ongoing efforts necessary to preserve our environment.”
Smith sums it up perfectly: “Discovering a business that brings joy to people’s lives is incredibly rewarding. Do you ever see pictures of people not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
On the serene Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides across the crystalline waters, she shares that her journey in aquaculture began at the age of 14, volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree adds depth to her enthusiasm for her daily work. “I adore being out on the water early, taking in the various sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
At the dock, her team suits up and begins the process of sorting; damaged oysters are returned to shallow waters, where multiple fish species gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the local advantages that stem from the farm: “The oysters provide a remarkable vertical habitat for young marine organisms; the farm truly creates its own ecosystem. Additionally, we have generated several jobs for community members of varying ages.”
Facing Challenges
While mortality events and complex regulations pose challenges, weather remains the most significant obstacle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa faced a total loss from Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We simply find a way to push through and continue,” he states.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides community backing, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson articulating their purpose: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this remarkable burgeoning industry in the South and encourage people to engage with it. Try a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, experience the difference.”
Despite numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses his commitment alongside his peers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for any amount of money.”
This article was originally featured in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
