For anyone familiar with oysters, it’s widely known that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their delicious shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West have their own devoted fans.
However, bring up Southeast oysters and one encounters skepticism, with many dismissing them outright as inferior due to warmer waters. Confession time: I was once among those skeptics.
My perception changed dramatically after tasting the Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South conference in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of local entrepreneurs who are determined to elevate the status of Southern oysters, contribute to community welfare, and improve environmental health.
I was warmly invited to spend a few days on the shellfish farms. So, equipped with rubber boots and generously applied sunblock, I made my way to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the gulf
The morning is stunning as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague Reid Ballard navigates our skiff to their farm, while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura kind of stumbled into oyster farming and thought, “Why not give it a try?”
“Seafood is a family favorite, so it felt like a natural choice,” Smith explains, gesturing to the shimmering waters and unblemished skies. “And you can’t beat the view from the office.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming takes place above the seabed in estuarine waters, where tides consistently refresh nutrients. Before us, floating cages bob along, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
Harvest is the main task today. Hauling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. Creatures of the sea cling to the cage, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish all around. “Our farm is like a floating reef now,” Smith observes.
The bags’ contents are passed through a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts out the smaller oysters, with those ready for harvest being funneled aside. The smaller oysters are designated for a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, helping to sustain the wild populations essential for these waters’ health. As Smith states, “cultivation” is meant for consumption, while “restoration” serves the environment.
During the labor-intensive process of scraping and sorting, there’s a chance to discuss personal motivations. Ballard shares his enthusiasm: “Raising an organism that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat development has opened my eyes to the ongoing work needed to preserve our environment’s cleanliness.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “Finding a venture that can spread so much joy is a true pleasure and honor. Do you ever see people not grinning when they’re enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As our skiff glides over the clear waters, she shares her lifelong interest in aquaculture, ignited when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at 14. With a Bachelor of Science degree underpinning her passion, she says: “I love being on the water in the early hours, absorbing all the sounds and smells… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Upon returning to the dock, her crew gears up to begin sorting; any damaged oysters are returned to the shallow water where diverse fish species swarm to feed. Mariano highlights the positive impact of their farm: “The oysters provide a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm is genuinely its own ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve created various jobs for community members of all ages.”
The challenges
Weather conditions, particularly hurricanes, pose the most significant threats to farms, with Smith sharing how Hurricane Helene wiped out an entire year’s yield at Calusa. “It takes a great deal of grit, effort, creativity, and flexibility. We simply adapt and persevere,” he remarks.
Community backing comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, represented by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, who emphasizes their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, innovative, and resilient people I know. We aim to promote this remarkable emerging industry in the South and welcome everyone to engage with it. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, taste the difference.”
Despite the various challenges, Ballard from Calusa encapsulates the sentiment of his peers: “I wouldn’t swap this job for anything.”
This piece first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US version).
