Anyone familiar with oysters knows that the northern shores of the United States are famous for excellent varieties of this shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas steal the spotlight from the West.
However, bring up the oysters from the Southeast, and you might see a chorus of disapproval, with frowns, pursed lips, and head shakes. Oysters from warmer waters? Count me out! I admit, I was one of those skeptics.
That was until my fortunate discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which broadened my perspective on this culinary delight. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered dedicated entrepreneurs committed to enhancing the stature of Southern oysters, supporting their communities, and improving local ecosystems.
With warm hospitality, I was invited to spend a couple of days working on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and generously applied sunscreen, I set off for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
First Day: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His companion, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and decided, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family has a passion for seafood, so it seemed like a natural pathway,” Smith notes while gesturing towards the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, the office view is unbeatable.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming takes place off the bottom of estuaries, where tides continuously refresh the water’s nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages bob on the surface, each housing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main objective is harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. Marine life clings to the cage structures, with crabs, seaweed, and small fish everywhere. Smith observes, “Our farm now resembles a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates the smaller oysters, allowing the ready-to-harvest ones to funnel out. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster the wild populations crucial for these waters’ health. Smith clearly delineates the purpose: “cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” is focused on environmental health.
This somewhat monotonous job of scraping and sorting provides ample time to delve into the motivations behind this way of life. Ballard expresses his enthusiasm, stating, “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has made me aware of the ongoing efforts required to keep our environment pristine.”
To summarize, Smith adds, “Finding a business that brings so much joy to people is truly a privilege. Have you ever seen photos of people not smiling while eating oysters?”
Second Day: On the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide out over the clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, which began at just 14 years old while volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree nicely complements her enjoyment of the profession. “I love being on the boat in the early morning, soaking in the sights and sounds… the ospreys, the dolphins, and the manatees coming up for air,” she reflects.
Back at the dock, her crew puts on slickers and begins sorting and separating the oysters; damaged ones are tossed into the shallow waters, where various fish gather to feed. Mariano highlights the benefits the farm brings to the community, stating, “The oysters create an impressive three-dimensional habitat for young organisms; the farm truly acts as its own ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve generated several jobs within our community for individuals across age groups.”
Overcoming Challenges
Facing mortality events and complex regulations can be challenging, but the biggest obstacle remains the weather. Hurricanes can devastate the farms; Smith at Calusa recounts an entire year’s worth of work lost to Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, ingenuity, and resilience. We adapt and find alternative ways to keep moving forward,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers essential community support, and Executive Director Adrianne Johnson describes their mission: “Shellfish farmers are incredibly hardworking and innovative individuals. We are committed to elevating this emerging industry in the South and encourage everyone to get involved. Sample a Southern oyster, back a local farmer, and experience the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges they face, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiment shared among his peers: “I wouldn’t swap this job for any amount of money.”
This piece was first published in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
