If you’re familiar with oysters, you likely recognize that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their delicious shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, as well as Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when the topic shifts to Southern oysters, reactions can be less than favorable. The prevailing sentiment often suggests that oysters from warmer waters are inferior. I admit, I was once one of those skeptics.
Then, a fortuitous meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, altered my perspective entirely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs striving to elevate the status of the Southern oyster, develop their local communities, and improve the surrounding environment.
Warm invitations beckoned me to spend a few days working on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and slathered in sunscreen, I eagerly set off to explore the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
First Day: Exploring the Gulf
A lovely morning finds Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greeting me at South Tampa Bay. Accompanied by his partner, Reid Ballard, we head to their leasehold, as Smith recounts how he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously ventured into oyster farming with a simple thought: “We could do that!”
“My family enjoys seafood, so it made sense to pursue this,” Smith shares while indicating the sparkling waters and azure skies. “And honestly, the office view is unbeatable.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, constantly replenished by tidal waters rich in nutrients. In front of us are floating cages housing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main objective is harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a rigorous effort. Various marine life clings to the cage structures, ranging from seaweed to crabs, with small fish darting about. As Smith remarks, “Our farm resembles a floating reef now.”
The oysters in the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, separating smaller oysters and guiding those that are ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aiming to bolster the wild populations essential for the health of the waters. Smith clarifies: “cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” serves the environment.
This monotonous scraping and sorting activity creates space for deeper discussions about their lifestyle. Ballard shares his motivation: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the ongoing efforts needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith sums it up perfectly: “Finding a business that spreads such positivity in people’s lives is both joyful and a privilege. Do you ever see anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Second Day: Exploring the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the crystal-clear waters, she shares how her fascination with aquaculture began as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. With her Bachelor of Science, she builds on what she loves about her career. “I cherish the early morning boat rides, immersed in the sounds and scents of nature—the ospreys, the dolphins, and the manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew dons slickers and begins sorting; any damaged oysters are tossed back into shallow waters where fish quickly gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the positive impacts of the farm on the local community. “The oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat for young organisms; our farm truly functions as its own ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve opened various job opportunities in our community for individuals across all age groups.”
The Obstacles
Unforeseen mortality events and intricate regulations can complicate matters, but the weather is often the greatest adversary. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa witnessed an entire year’s results destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We always find a way to navigate through or around obstacles and continue our work,” he explains.
Support for the community comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I have met. We aim to support this remarkable developing industry in the South and invite people to join in. Experience the flavor of a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, and taste the difference.”
Despite the multifaceted challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses his passion: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
