Those familiar with oysters can attest that the northern shores of the U.S. are famous for their exceptional shellfish varieties. Connoisseurs rave over the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast receive their fair share of acclaim.
However, when discussing oysters from the Southeast, reactions often include turned-up noses and disapproving shakes of the head. Mediocre oysters from warmer waters? Never on my ice-filled platter. I confess that I used to share similar sentiments.
Then, a chance discovery of the Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to enhancing the Southern oyster’s reputation, boosting their communities, and promoting environmental sustainability.
I was graciously invited to spend a couple of days at the farms. With rubber boots ready and sunscreen applied, I excitedly made my way to the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
On a picturesque early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague Reid Ballard navigates us to their leasehold while Smith admits it was somewhat of a happy accident that led him and his wife Maura to dive into oyster farming with an enthusiastic, “Why not?”
“I’ve always loved seafood, making this endeavor quite natural for me,” explains Smith, gesturing to the serene waters beneath the sunny sky. “The office view is hard to beat.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast is conducted off-bottom in estuaries, where the tides continuously refresh the nutrients. We glide past floating cages, each containing mesh bags with oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Hoisting up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a challenging task. Sea life flourishes around the cage structures, teeming with seaweed, crabs, and small fish. As Smith puts it: “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating cylinder, effectively sorting the smaller oysters and directing the ready ones for harvest. Some of these smaller oysters will be given to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster the wild populations essential for the health of these waters. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “cultivation” focuses on consumption, whereas “restoration” aids the environment.
This somewhat monotonous scraping and sorting task provides an opportunity to delve into personal motivations behind this work. Ballard shares what inspires him: “Growing an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and helps create habitats has made me realize the extensive work required to maintain a clean environment.”
And Smith beautifully sums it up: “Finding a business that brings so much joy to people’s lives is a true privilege. Have you ever noticed people not smiling when they’re savoring oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I’m greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, sparked as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her passion for this profession. “I cherish the early mornings spent on the boat, absorbing the vibrant sounds and scents of nature… the calls of ospreys, dolphins surfacing, and manatees coming up for air.”
At the dock, her crew gears up and begins to sort through the oysters; those that are damaged are tossed back into the shallow waters, where a variety of fish gather to feed. Mariano notes the ecological benefits of their farm. “The oysters form an incredible vertical habitat, supporting juvenile organisms; our farm is genuinely a small ecosystem. Plus, we’ve created numerous job opportunities for locals of all ages.”
The challenges
Facing mortality events and navigating stringent regulations can be arduous, yet the weather remains the primary adversary. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa expressed how a year’s efforts were obliterated by Hurricane Helene. “We need persistence, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We always find a way to push through,” he states.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this burgeoning Southern industry and encourage others to get involved. Support your local farmers by trying a southern oyster; it truly makes a difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa speaks on behalf of his peers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article was initially featured in the November/December 2025 issue of The Windows Clubs magazine (U.S. edition).
