If you have any familiarity with oysters, you likely know that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast receive their own accolades.
However, bringing up Southeast oysters often results in disdain—people wrinkle their noses, purse their lips, and shake their heads. Inferior shellfish from warmer waters? Not on my plate of crushed ice! I admit, I used to be one of those skeptics.
That changed with a fortunate encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, revealing an entirely different perspective. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met dedicated entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the Southern oyster’s image, generating economic opportunities for their communities, and improving local ecosystems.
With gracious invitations extended, I packed my rubber boots and sunblock and eagerly set out for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: On the Gulf
A beautiful morning unfolds as Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young partner, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their leasehold, where Smith reveals that he and his wife Maura accidentally discovered oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“Our family enjoys seafood, so this seemed like a natural venture,” Smith shares, gesturing to the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Plus, the surroundings are hard to beat.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast takes place in estuaries using “off-bottom” techniques, where tidal movements continually replenish nutrients in the water. Floating cages ahead of us host mesh bags filled with oysters in varying growth stages.
The focus for today is harvesting. Raising a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a labor-intensive endeavor. Sea life clings to the cages, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish all around. As Smith notes, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are sifted through a rotating perforated cylinder to sort out smaller oysters and guide the ones ready for harvest into another collection area. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to help maintain wild populations essential for the health of the ecosystem. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “cultivation” is for human consumption, while “restoration” focuses on ecological health.
This somewhat monotonous process of scraping and sorting allows for personal insights about life in this industry. Ballard expresses the dedication that fuels his work: “Cultivating a species that sequesters carbon, purifies water, and supports habitat growth has revealed just how much work there is left to ensure a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “Finding a business that brings so much joy to people is a real privilege. Have you ever noticed anyone frowning while eating oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide across the clear waters, she shares that her passion for aquaculture began at the age of 14 while volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree further solidified her commitment to her enjoyable career. “I love being out on the boat early in the morning, absorbing the sounds and scents of nature… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team begins sorting and separating; damaged oysters are returned to the shallow waters where fish swim and feed. Mariano reflects on the local impacts of the farm. “The oysters create an incredible three-dimensional habitat for juvenile creatures; the farm genuinely acts as its own ecosystem. We have generated numerous jobs for community members across generations.”
The Challenges
Mortality crises and complex regulations can be challenging to navigate, but the weather presents the most significant hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa recalls losing an entire year’s harvest to Hurricane Helene. “It calls for persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We find ways to overcome and keep moving forward.”
Support also comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association. Executive Director Adrianne Johnson states their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the hardest-working, most resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this emerging industry in the South and encourage everyone to engage. Savor a southern oyster, support local farmers, and notice the difference.”
Despite the various challenges, Ballard from Calusa speaks for his peers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This piece was initially published in the November/December 2025 issue of The Windows Club magazine (U.S. edition).
