If you are at all familiar with oysters, it’s likely you recognize the northern US coasts for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets found in the East, as well as the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, bring up the subject of oysters from the Southeastern region, and many people tend to wrinkle their noses or shake their heads in disapproval. Subpar oysters from warmer waters? Not a chance on my platter of crushed ice. I’ll admit, I was one of the skeptics.
But then I had a fortuitous encounter with Shark Bite oysters sourced from New Smyrna Beach in Florida, and it completely changed my perspective. At an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs striving to elevate the reputation of Southern oysters, enhance community value, and promote ecological health.
I was warmly welcomed to spend a couple of days working at their farms. Decked out in rubber boots and slathered in sunscreen, I eagerly set off toward the picturesque waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Experience
As the sun rises, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young partner, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their lease area, while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura discovered the idea of oyster farming almost by chance, exclaiming, “Hey, we could definitely do that!”
“We are big seafood lovers, so pursuing this seemed natural,” Smith explains, gesturing to the shimmering waters and clear skies. “Plus, who wouldn’t want to work in such a beautiful office?”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where the tides constantly refresh the water with nutrients. As we move ahead, we see floating cages, each filled with mesh bags containing oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main task is harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flat bag proves to be quite the workout. The cages are adorned with marine life, including seaweed, crabs, and small fish. As Smith remarks, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are placed through a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts out the smaller oysters, redirecting those ready for market. Some smaller ones will go to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to benefit wild stocks crucial for the health of these waters. Smith delineates the distinction: “cultivation” is aimed at consumption, while “restoration” serves the ecosystem.
This somewhat laborious task of sorting provides a moment to delve into personal stories. Ballard articulates his motivation, stating, “Cultivating an animal that helps sequester carbon, cleanses water, and contributes to habitat building has made me acutely aware of the ongoing work needed to maintain cleanliness in our environment.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment well: “It’s truly rewarding to find a vocation that brings so much joy. Seriously, do you ever see anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Insights
I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As we glide across the clear waters, she shares that her passion for aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. With a Bachelor’s degree supporting her passion, she says, “I cherish being out on the boat in the peaceful mornings, enjoying the sounds and smells… from the ospreys to dolphins, and even manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew suits up to begin their work, separating and sorting oysters; any damaged ones are tossed back into the water, where multiple species of fish eagerly feed. Mariano reflects on the advantages the farm brings to the local community. “Our oysters provide a fantastic vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm effectively acts as its own ecosystem. Plus, we’ve created job opportunities for community members of all ages.”
Facing Challenges
Farmers face various challenges, with the greatest being unpredictable weather; hurricanes can devastate operations. Smith at Calusa endured a full year’s yield destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, ingenuity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We always find our way through challenges and keep progressing,” he explains.
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association helps foster community, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expressing their objective: “Shellfish cultivators are among the most dedicated and pioneering individuals I know. We strive to elevate this incredible emerging sector in the South and welcome everyone to join. Savor a southern oyster, support local farming, and enjoy the benefits.”
Despite confronting numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa affirms his commitment: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
