For those who are familiar with oysters, it’s no secret that the northern U.S. coasts are famous for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West also receive high accolades.
Conversely, when the oysters from the Southeast are discussed, the reaction may be one of skepticism, often accompanied by furrowed brows and disapproving shakes of the head. Few are persuaded by the notion of inferior oysters from warmer waters gracing their ice-cold platters. I’ll admit, I once shared this same mindset.
However, a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters hailing from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, completely changed my perspective. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of driven entrepreneurs focused on reviving the Southern oyster’s image, enhancing community value, and promoting environmental sustainability.
I received warm invitations to spend a few days on the oyster farms. Armed with rubber boots and smeared with sunblock, I eagerly set off to experience the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Adventures
The scene is picturesque as Reed Smith of the Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. With him, his young partner Reid Ballard motors us toward their lease area, where Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming. “We thought, we can do this!”
“Our family has a deep fondness for seafood, making this path an obvious choice,” Smith conveys, gesturing toward the breathtaking expanse of shimmering waters and bright blue skies. “And honestly, the office view is unbeatable.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast generally occurs in estuaries “off-bottom,” where constant tidal flows infuse essential nutrients into the water. We can see floating cages ahead, each filled with mesh bags containing oysters at different development stages.
Today’s main focus is the harvest. Retrieving a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a labor-intensive endeavor. The structure of the cages hosts various sea life, teeming with crabs, fish, and seaweed. “Our farm operates like a floating reef now,” Smith points out.
The bags’ contents are funneled through a rotating cylinder, which sorts the smaller oysters from those ready for harvest. A portion of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster the wild populations critical for the area’s health. As Smith clarifies, “cultivation” is intended for consumption, while “restoration” targets environmental needs.
This somewhat laborious task of sorting and sifting provides an opportunity to dive into personal reflections about this lifestyle. Ballard expresses his driving passion: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat has opened my eyes to the ongoing work necessary for sustaining a clean environment.”
To summarize Smith’s thoughts: “Finding a vocation that brings so much joy to people’s lives is a genuine privilege. Have you ever seen individuals not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Perspective
On the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide through the clear waters, she shares her lifelong fascination with aquaculture that began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at the tender age of 14. Her Bachelor of Science enriches her enjoyment of her career. “I cherish being out on the boat at dawn, absorbing the sounds and scents… from the ospreys to the dolphins and the manatees surfacing for a breath.”
Back at the dock, her team gears up, diligently sorting and categorizing; any damaged oysters are tossed back into the shallow waters, where various fish species quickly converge. Mariano highlights the local benefits her farm produces. “The oysters significantly enhance vertical habitat, creating a thriving ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated numerous jobs for members of our local community.”
Facing Challenges
Weather remains the major hurdle; hurricanes can devastate farms. Smith from Calusa witnessed a year’s worth of work obliterated by Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We constantly navigate the challenges and continue to persevere.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides crucial community support, represented by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, who affirms their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, innovative individuals I know. We seek to uplift this remarkable emerging industry in the South and encourage everyone to participate. Savor a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and taste the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges faced, Ballard from Calusa conveys the sentiments shared by many farmers: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for anything else.”
This article was originally featured in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
