If you’re at all familiar with oysters, it’s no secret that the northern shores of the US are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the Pacific Coast also receive high praise.
However, bring up the oysters from the Southeast, and you might witness disdainful reactions, with wrinkled noses and disapproving shakes of the head. Who wants second-rate oysters from warmer waters? I must confess, I once shared that viewpoint.
That all changed after an unexpected encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. While attending an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a group of dedicated entrepreneurs focused on restoring the Southern oyster’s image, benefiting their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
They generously invited me to spend a couple of days working alongside them on the farms. Eagerly suited up with rubber boots and slathered in sunblock, I set out for the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: On the Gulf
On a radiant early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, steers us out to their leasehold as Smith shares how he and his wife, Maura, inadvertently ventured into oyster farming with a casual, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family loves seafood, so it made sense to pursue this path,” Smith says, gesturing toward the sunlit waters and clear skies. “The office view is pretty unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast takes place “off-bottom” in estuarine areas, where tides continuously refresh nutrients in the environment. A multitude of floating cages, each containing mesh bags of oysters at different growth stages, gently bob in the water.
Today’s main focus is harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. Life thrives around the structures, with seaweed, small fish, and crabs visible everywhere. As Smith aptly puts it, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
We tumble the oyster-filled bags through a rotating perforated cylinder, which separates smaller oysters and directs those ready for harvest to the next phase. Some of these smaller ones will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration project aimed at supporting wild oyster populations crucial for the region’s waterway health. Smith distinguishes: “Cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” serves the ecosystem.
This somewhat monotonous task of scraping and sorting allows for deeper conversations about life in this field. Ballard shares the passion that fuels him: “Raising an animal that captures carbon, filters water, and nurtures habitat growth has made me acutely aware of the work needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith summarizes the rewarding aspects of their work: “It’s a joy and privilege to be involved in a business that spreads positivity. Have you ever seen a photo of someone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As our skiff glides over the clear water, Nicolette shares her long-time fascination with aquaculture, a passion sparked while volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at the age of 14. Holding a Bachelor of Science degree, she enjoys the joys of her trade. “Being out on the water at dawn, surrounded by sounds and scents of nature—ospreys, dolphins, and manatees—is exhilarating.”
Back at the dock, her crew dons slickers and begins sorting and separating oysters; any damaged ones are thrown back into shallow waters where fish come to feed. Mariano reflects on how the farm benefits the local ecosystem. “Oysters provide a vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm functions as its own unique ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve created numerous job opportunities within our community for individuals of all ages.”
The Challenges
Navigating mortality events and complex regulations can be tricky, but the weather remains the significant hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa lost an entire year’s worth of labor due to Hurricane Helene. “It necessitates perseverance, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We simply need to find a way to adapt and continue.”
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association plays a vital role, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this incredible emerging industry in the South and welcome others to join. Sample a Southern oyster, support a local grower, and enjoy the difference.”
Despite various challenges, Ballard from Calusa conveys the sentiment of many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US version).
