If you’re familiar with oysters, you’ve likely heard about the exquisite shellfish found along the northern shores of the US. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets on the East Coast, while the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast enjoy their own praises.
However, the conversation shifts when the discussion turns to oysters from the Southeast, often met with skepticism and disdain. Warm water oysters are often labeled as inferior, and I’ll admit I was guilty of harboring similar opinions.
That was until I encountered the Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South event in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs dedicated to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, bolstering community value, and improving local ecosystems.
I received warm invitations to spend a couple of days working on their farms. With rubber boots ready and sunblock applied, I set off to explore the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
On a stunning early morning, I am welcomed by Reed Smith of the Calusa Oyster Company at South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, then ferries us out to their leasehold while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura serendipitously found themselves interested in oyster farming, thinking, “Why not?”
“Our family enjoys seafood, so it seemed like the natural route,” explains Smith, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, it’s a fantastic office.”
Here, oyster aquaculture mostly occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries where tides continually refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages bob around us, housing mesh bags packed with oysters at various growth stages.
The main goal for the day is to harvest. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a challenging job. Various marine life surrounds the cage, with crabs, tiny fish, and seaweed in abundance. “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef,” Smith remarks.
The contents of the bags are then processed through a rotating perforated cylinder to separate the smaller oysters, guiding those ready for market. Some of the younger oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration project aimed at aiding wild populations essential for these waters’ health. “Cultivation” serves for consumption, while “restoration” benefits the environment, Smith clarifies.
This repetitive yet necessary task paves the way for deeper discussions on life and passion. Ballard expresses the motivation that moves him: “Raising an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has highlighted the work still needed to keep our environment healthy.”
Smith sums it all up perfectly: “Finding a job that spreads joy in people’s lives is a true privilege. Do you ever see anyone frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides across the transparent waters, she shares her long-standing passion for aquaculture, first sparked as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center when she was just 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree further cements her enthusiasm for her career path. “I love the early mornings spent on the boat, soaking in all the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for a breath.”
Once we return to the dock, her team gears up to separate and sort the oysters; damaged ones are discarded into shallow waters, attracting various fish for feeding. Mariano reflects on the local advantages the farm offers: “The oysters forge an incredible three-dimensional habitat for juvenile marine life; it’s truly an ecosystem in itself. We’ve also generated numerous job opportunities for our community at all age levels.”
The challenges
Farming oysters comes with its trials, as mortality events and complex regulations can pose challenges. Yet, nothing compares to the impact of severe weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa recalls losing an entire season’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We find ways to navigate through or around the difficulties,” he explains.
Support from the community is bolstered by the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, expresses their vision: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest-working, most innovative people I know. We aim to elevate this remarkable, emerging Southern industry and invite the public to engage with it. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, taste the difference.”
Despite the numerous obstacles, Ballard from Calusa voices the sentiment of his peers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article initially appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
