If you’re even mildly familiar with oysters, it’s clear that the northern shores of the United States are famed for their mouth-watering shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast earn similar accolades.
However, bring up oysters from the Southeastern region, and you’re likely to encounter disdain—upturned noses, pursed lips, and vigorous head shakes. Why would anyone want mediocre oysters from warmer waters? I must admit, I was once among the skeptics.
Yet, everything changed after I tasted Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which opened my eyes (and palate) to new possibilities. Attending an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine introduced me to a dedicated group of entrepreneurs who strive to elevate the reputation of Southern oysters, benefit their communities, and foster environmental health.
I received kind invitations to spend two days working on the oyster farms. With rubber boots ready and sunscreen applied, I eagerly set out to explore the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: At the Gulf
On a beautiful early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young colleague, Reid Ballard, motors us out to their leasehold as Smith shares that he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously discovered oyster farming and exclaimed, “Hey, we could do that!”
“Seafood has always been a family favorite, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith explains, gesturing at the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Not to mention, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
The majority of oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuarine waters, where tides continuously rejuvenate the nutrients. Floating cages ahead of us house mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Harvesting is today’s main focus. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flat bag proves to be a labor-intensive process. The cage structures become home to various marine life, including crabs, tiny fish, and seaweed. “Our farm has evolved into a floating reef,” Smith remarks.
After tumbling the contents through a rotating perforated cylinder to sort smaller oysters from those ready for harvesting, some of the smaller specimens will be donated to the local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to assist the wild stocks essential for the ecosystem. Smith clarifies the distinction: “cultivation” is meant for human consumption, while “restoration” serves ecological purposes.
The repetitive nature of scraping and sorting lends itself to personal conversations. Ballard passionately shares, “Cultivating organisms that sequester carbon, cleanse water, and foster habitat growth has made me acutely aware of the ongoing efforts needed to keep our environment clean.”
Summarizing this fulfilling experience, Smith adds, “To find a business that brings joy to so many people is truly rewarding. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day Two: At the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the pristine waters, she shares that her passion for aquaculture was sparked as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree enriches her personal joy in her profession. “I cherish the early mornings out on the boat, enjoying the sounds and scents… from ospreys to dolphins and manatees surfacing for air,” she says.
Back on the dock, her crew gears up to sort through the oysters; any damaged ones are cast into the shallow waters, attracting schools of fish that feed on them. Mariano reflects on the local advantages stemming from the farm. “Our oysters create an amazing vertical, three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm essentially operates as a self-sufficient ecosystem. We’ve also been able to generate numerous jobs in our community for individuals of all ages.”
Facing Challenges
Facing issues like mortality events and complex regulations can prove challenging, but the weather is arguably the most significant hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa recalls losing an entire year’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, effort, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We just find a way around the obstacles and keep moving forward,” he states.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expressing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest working, most innovative, and resilient people I know. We aim to uplift this incredible, burgeoning industry in the South and encourage others to join in. Savor a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, and appreciate the unique flavors.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa voices the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for a million bucks.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
