If you’ve ever encountered oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern shores of the US are celebrated for their exceptional shellfish. Enthusiasts of these delicacies often rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, bring up Southeast oysters, and you’ll often see faces scrunch up, lips tightening, and heads shaking in disapproval. Subpar oysters from warmer waters? Count me out, especially when it comes to my ice-filled platter. I admit, I used to be one of those skeptics.
That changed when I had a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which opened my palate to a different perspective. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs working diligently to revive the Southern oyster’s reputation, generate community benefits, and bolster the local ecosystem.
They graciously invited me to spend a few days working on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and plenty of sunscreen, I was excited to explore the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: In the Gulf
The day begins beautifully as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, steers us towards their lease area while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura unexpectedly discovered oyster farming and thought, “We could do this!”
“My family has a passion for seafood, so it was a natural path to take,” he says, gesturing at the sparkling waters and clear blue skies. “Plus, the office view is unmatched.”
Most oyster aquaculture in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuarine environments where tidal movements consistently refresh water nutrients. Ahead of us float cages containing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
The main activity for the day involves harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. A variety of marine life is attached to the cage structures, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish abundant. Smith remarks, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are funneled through a rotating cylinder to separate the smaller oysters, directing the larger ones ready for harvest. Additionally, some of the smaller oysters will be given to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration project aimed at sustaining wild populations crucial for the ecosystem’s health. Smith delineates the distinction: “Cultivation is for eating; restoration is for the ecosystem.”
This somewhat monotonous cleaning and sorting task allows for deeper conversations about personal motivations. Ballard shares the passion fueling his work: “Growing creatures that sequester carbon, clean water, and foster habitat growth has made me aware of the ongoing work required to keep our environment clean.”
Summing it all up, Smith adds, “Being in a business that spreads positivity in people’s lives is a true joy. Have you ever noticed people not smiling when they eat oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
Meeting at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I’m welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our little boat glides through clear waters, she shares how her fascination with aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. Her Bachelor’s degree enhances her enjoyment of this career. “I adore being out on the boat at dawn, soaking in the sounds and smells… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for a breath.”
Returning to the dock, her team equips themselves for sorting work; any damaged oysters are tossed back into the shallow waters, attracting various fish species. Mariano highlights the local implications of the farm, stating, “Oysters provide a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm genuinely creates its own ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated several jobs in our community for people of all ages.”
The Challenges
Dealing with high mortality rates and complex regulations can be quite cumbersome, but the biggest hurdle remains the weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for example, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s harvest to Hurricane Helene. “It requires determination, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We find a way to move forward and persevere.”
Community backing is provided by the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director Adrianne Johnson shares their objective: “Shellfish farmers are some of the hardest working, most resilient individuals I know. Our aim is to champion this incredible emerging industry in the South and invite people to explore it. Sample a southern oyster, support local farmers, and experience the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses his commitment: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This piece was originally published in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
