For anyone who has sampled oysters, the northern shores of the United States are well-known for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts delight in Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East and extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, when the discussion turns to oysters from the Southeast, many tend to express skepticism, dismissing them as inferior due to their warmer waters. As someone who once shared this viewpoint, I can now confess my previous misconceptions.
An unexpected introduction to Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida completely shifted my perspective. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the reputation of Southern oysters, adding value to their communities, and improving local ecosystems.
Invitations were graciously extended for me to spend a couple of days working on their farms. Equipped with rubber boots and sunblock, I set out for the inviting waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day 1: Gulf Experience
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company warmly welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His young colleague, Reid Ballard, navigates us out to their underwater leasehold. Smith recounts how his journey into oyster farming began somewhat incidentally with a simple idea: “We could do that!”
Smith explains, “My family adores seafood, so this felt like a natural path.” He gestures towards the shimmering waters and pristine skies. “Besides, the work environment is unbeatable.”
The Southeast’s oyster farming largely occurs “off-bottom” in estuarine systems where tides continually replenish nutrients in the water. Floating cages populated with mesh bags containing oysters at various growth stages bob ahead of us.
Today’s main focus is harvesting. Raising a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite physically demanding. Wildlife, including seaweed, crabs, and small fish, thrive around the cage structures. Smith observes, “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef.”
As we sort through the bags, using a rotating perforated cylinder to separate smaller oysters, some will be donated to the local restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, aiding the wild populations crucial to the waters’ wellbeing. Smith clarifies the distinction: “cultivation” serves for consumption, while “restoration” aims at environmental health.
This somewhat laborious task provides a moment to delve into the personal motivations behind this lifestyle. Ballard shares his passion: “Cultivating an animal that traps carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat development has highlighted the ongoing efforts needed to maintain environmental cleanliness.”
Smith encapsulates their shared sentiment: “It’s a joy and privilege to be involved in a business that spreads positivity. Do you ever see images of people not smiling when they’re eating oysters?”
Day 2: Atlantic Exploration
On a dock overlooking the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As our small boat glides over the clear waters, Nicolette shares her longtime fascination with aquaculture, which started at 14 years old as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her academic background in science enhances her appreciation for her vocation. “I love being on the boat in the morning, soaking in all the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Once back at the dock, her team gears up, beginning to separate and sort the oysters; any damaged ones are discarded into the shallow waters where various fish species gather to feed. Mariano notes the local advantages of the farm: “The oysters provide a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile sea life; the farm truly functions as an ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve created numerous jobs for community members of all ages.”
Facing Obstacles
Unforeseen mortality events and complex regulations can be daunting, yet the weather poses the greatest challenges. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s effort to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, hard work, ingenuity, resilience, and adaptability. We just adapt and press on.”
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association helps the farmers; their Executive Director Adrianne Johnson highlights their objective: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. Our mission is to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South and encourage people to participate. Support a local farmer, try a southern oyster, savor the difference.”
Despite numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa expresses the consensus among farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this role for anything.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. Edition).
