For those even mildly familiar with oysters, it’s undeniable that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their mouthwatering shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, the oysters from the Southeast often receive a cold shoulder, as many sneak a glance of disdain, tightly pressing their lips together, as if to say, “Second-rate oysters from warmer waters? Not on my plate of crushed ice.” I must admit, I once shared those sentiments.
But everything changed after a chance discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida. Attending an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine introduced me to a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the Southern oyster’s image, enhancing community value, and benefiting the local ecosystem.
I was generously invited to spend a couple of days working on the farms. Equipped with rubber boots and smeared with sunblock, I set off towards the waters of both the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Adventures
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, navigates our boat to their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously ventured into oyster farming, humorously reflecting, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family adores seafood, so this seemed like a natural pursuit,” Smith states, gesturing toward the shimmering waters and pristine skies. “And honestly, the workspace is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in estuaries, allowing tides to consistently replenish nutrients in the water. Ahead of us, we see floating cages containing mesh bags suffused with oysters at varying growth stages.
Today’s primary objective is to harvest. Hoisting a cage and extracting a compressed bag proves to be quite a workout. Life teems around the cage structures with seaweed, crabs, and small fish galore. As Smith mentions, “Our farm feels like a floating reef.”
The inner contents of the bags are agitated through a rotating perforated cylinder, which sorts out smaller oysters while funneling those fit for harvest. Some of these smaller oysters will be given to a marine restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster wild populations that are crucial for these waters’ vitality. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “Cultivation” is meant for eating, while “restoration” serves the environment.
This somewhat laborious sorting and scraping offers space for deeper discussions about life in this field. Ballard expresses the motivation behind his work, saying, “Cultivating an animal that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has sharpened my awareness of the work still needed to preserve our environment.”
Smith encapsulates the essence of the experience: “It’s truly a joy and privilege to be part of a business that spreads such positivity in people’s lives. Do you ever see pictures of individuals not smiling while they savor oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Experiences
I arrive at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, where Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As we glide over the clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing passion for aquaculture, which began when she was a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her love for this career. “Nothing beats being on the boat during the early morning, immersing myself in all the sights and sounds… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she adds.
Back at the dock, her team begins separating and sorting the oysters; those deemed damaged find their way into shallow waters, where numerous fish species gather to feed. Mariano points out the community benefits of their farming operation: “Our oysters create a unique vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm is truly a mini-ecosystem. We’ve also generated various jobs within our community across multiple generations.”
Facing the Challenges
Although navigating mortality events and intricate regulations can be challenging, the weather poses the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate farms, and Smith from Calusa recalls how an entire year’s worth of work was lost to Hurricane Helene. “This requires determination, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We always find a way to navigate through the difficulties and continue on,” he shares.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest working, most innovative, and resilient individuals. We strive to uplift this dynamic, emerging sector in the South and encourage individuals to engage with it. Try Southern oysters, support local growers, and experience the difference.”
Despite the many hurdles, Ballard from Calusa speaks for his fellow farmers when he says, “I wouldn’t exchange this job for anything—it’s worth more than a million dollars.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US version).
