Anyone familiar with oysters knows that the northern regions of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when the conversation shifts to Southeastern oysters, many dismiss them with disdain, raising eyebrows and shaking heads. “Oysters from warmer waters? Not on my icy platter,” is a sentiment I’ve echoed in the past.
But my perspective changed dramatically after I tried Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of innovative entrepreneurs committed to enhancing the reputation of Southern oysters, fostering community growth, and improving local ecosystems.
After receiving warm invitations, I packed my rubber boots and sunscreen, eagerly heading towards the coastal waters of the Atlantic and Gulf.
First Day: Gulf Excursions
On this lovely morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, skillfully navigates us to their lease area as Smith shares how he and his wife Maura inadvertently ventured into oyster farming, thinking, “Why not give it a try?”
“Our family has always enjoyed seafood, so it felt like a natural path,” Smith explains, gesturing towards the stunning waters and clear skies. “Plus, the office view is unbeatable.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast primarily occurs in “off-bottom” setups in estuaries that are constantly refreshed by tides, enriching the water with nutrients. Ahead of us float cages that hold mesh bags of oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main objective is to gather the oysters. Raising a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a tough endeavor. Various sea creatures cling to the cage, with crabs, small fish, and seaweed present everywhere. As Smith remarks, “Our farm has essentially transformed into a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are then tumbled through a perforated rotating cylinder to sort out the smaller oysters, which will be directed towards harvest. Some smaller specimens will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative aimed at supporting wild populations critical to the health of the ecosystem. Smith highlights the distinction: “Cultivation” is aimed at consumption, while “restoration” serves environmental purposes.
This somewhat laborious task of cleaning and sorting lends itself to discussions about personal motivations in this lifestyle. Ballard shares his passion: “Developing an organism that filters water, captures carbon, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize how much more work is needed to protect our environment.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “Finding a vocation that brings joy to so many lives is truly rewarding. Do you ever see anyone not smiling when they enjoy oysters?”
Second Day: Atlantic Adventures
On the dock of the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish welcomes me. As our small boat glides through the clear waters, she shares how her passion for aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her enthusiasm, she expresses, “I cherish the early mornings on the boat, surrounded by the sounds and scents of nature. The ospreys, dolphins, and even manatees surfacing for air bring me joy.”
Upon returning to the dock, her crew gets to work separating oysters, discarding damaged ones back into the shallow waters where fish gather to feast. Mariano emphasizes the advantages of the farm to the local ecosystem. “The oysters create an impressive three-dimensional habitat for young marine organisms; the farm acts as a complex ecosystem in itself. Moreover, we’ve generated job opportunities for individuals of all ages in our community.”
Facing Challenges
Mortality events and stringent regulations present significant hurdles, but unpredictable weather remains the most daunting challenge. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa recounts losing an entire year’s harvest to Hurricane Helene. “It takes determination, creativity, and resilience to overcome these obstacles. We just adapt and push forward,” he asserts.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson articulating their mission: “Shellfish farmers are incredibly hardworking and innovative individuals. We aim to support this blossoming industry in the South and encourage people to engage with it. Try a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, and experience the distinction.”
Despite numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa speaks passionately on behalf of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this occupation for anything in the world.”
This piece was initially featured in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
