If you’re familiar with oysters, you likely know that the northern shores of the United States are famous for their exquisite shellfish varieties. East Coast enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while West Coast fans praise Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when the topic shifts to oysters from the Southeast, it often elicits skepticism, with many dismissing them as inferior due to their warm-water origins. I must admit, I was once among those skeptics.
My perspective changed completely after a fortuitous encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine, I met passionate entrepreneurs dedicated to changing the narrative around Southern oysters, building community value, and improving the local ecosystem.
After receiving warm invitations, I spent a few days working on the oyster farms. With my trusty rubber boots and generous application of sunblock, I eagerly set out to explore the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Excursion
On a stunning morning, I am greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. His enthusiastic partner, Reid Ballard, navigates us toward their leasehold, while Smith recounts how he and his wife stumbled into oyster farming, thinking, “Why not?”
“My family has always enjoyed seafood, so it seemed like a natural path to explore,” Smith reflects, gesturing at the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Plus, you can’t beat this office view.”
Much of the oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuarine environments, where tidal movements continually replenish nutrient supply. Floating cages ahead of us contain mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
The main activity for the day is harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. The structures are alive with aquatic life, teeming with seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. As Smith points out: “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef.”
The contents of each bag are sorted through a rotating, perforated cylinder, separating smaller oysters and directing the harvest-ready ones elsewhere. Some smaller oysters will be donated to a local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster the wild populations essential for the local ecosystem. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “cultivation” aims for consumption, whereas “restoration” benefits the environment.
While scraping and sorting may seem monotonous, it provides an opportunity for personal stories to unfold. Ballard shares his motivation: “Farming a species that captures carbon, cleanses water, and encourages habitat formation has made me realize how much more effort is needed to preserve a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the experience: “To find a vocation that spreads joy to others is truly rewarding. When do you ever see someone without a smile when they’re eating oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Adventure
I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock along the Indian River Lagoon. As we glide through the clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing interest in aquaculture, sparked as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. Her Bachelor’s degree underlines her dedication to her profession. “I enjoy being on the water in the early mornings, soaking in the atmosphere…the sounds and scents of ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for a breath,” she shares.
Back at the dock, her crew gears up to categorize and sort the oysters; damaged specimens are tossed back into the shallows, where various fish species swarm to feed. Mariano notes the local advantages the farm provides. “The oysters form a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for young marine organisms; effectively, the farm is a unique ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve created numerous jobs within our community for a wide range of individuals.”
Confronting Challenges
While dealing with mortality events and a maze of regulations can be daunting, weather remains the most formidable challenge. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa recalls being struck hard by Hurricane Helene, resulting in a total loss of a year’s harvest. “Success in this field requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We just have to find a way and keep moving forward.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers vital support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expressing their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I’ve known. We aspire to elevate this promising industry in the South and encourage people to get involved. Sample a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and truly experience the difference.”
Despite the numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa speaks for many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
