For those familiar with oysters, the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets hailing from the East Coast, while the West Coast is home to Kumamotos and Hama Hamas, which receive similar acclaim.
However, when it comes to oysters from the Southeast, there’s often skepticism, accompanied by raised eyebrows, pursed lips, and disapproving head shakes. Second-rate oysters from warmer waters? Not on my platter of crushed ice, thank you very much. I will admit that I once held this limiting view.
My perspective shifted dramatically after a delightful discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs passionate about reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation. Their goal is to generate local value while enhancing the community and environment.
Invitations to spend a couple of days working on their oyster farms were generously extended. With rubber boots packed and sunblock applied, I eagerly set off for the coastlines of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day 1: On the Gulf
On this stunning early morning, I am greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, takes us out on a boat to their leasehold, as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura serendipitously ventured into oyster farming, thinking, “Sure, we can do that!”
“My family has always enjoyed seafood, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith explains, waving towards the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Furthermore, who wouldn’t want such an incredible workspace?”
Most oyster cultivation in the Southeast takes place “off-bottom” in nutrient-rich estuaries, revitalized by the ebb and flow of tides. Floating cages ahead hold mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s objective is harvesting. Bringing a cage aboard and extracting a flattened bag reveals to be a physically demanding task. Life teems around the structures, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish abound. “Our farm resembles a floating reef now,” Smith comments.
The harvested oysters are sorted through a rotating perforated drum, separating smaller oysters from those ready for consumption. Many of the smaller ones will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, an initiative focused on enhancing local wild oyster populations essential for the ecosystem’s health. As Smith explains, “cultivation” benefits consumers, while “restoration” helps the environment.
The somewhat labor-intensive process of sorting invites conversation about the personal rewards of this work. Ballard shares his passion: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitats has opened my eyes to the ongoing efforts required to maintain a clean environment.”
Summarizing this rewarding endeavor, Smith adds, “It’s a joy and privilege to run a business that brings so much happiness. Do you ever see someone frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Day 2: On the Atlantic
I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As we glide over the crystal-clear waters, she shares her journey, sparked by her volunteer experiences at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center when she was just 14. With a B.S. in hand, she delights in her work. “I cherish mornings on the water, immersed in the sounds and scents—watching ospreys, dolphins, and manatees breaching for air.”
Once back at the dock, her team gears up to start sorting the oysters; the damaged ones are tossed into shallow waters, feeding local fish. Mariano emphasizes the advantages their farm brings to the community. “The oysters create a unique three-dimensional habitat that nurtures juvenile organisms; our farm truly acts as its own ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated various job opportunities for locals of all ages.”
Overcoming obstacles
While mortality events and complex regulations pose challenges, weather proves to be the most formidable opponent. Hurricanes can wreak havoc; Smith from Calusa experienced an entire year’s worth of effort destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “This job requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We find ways to navigate and endure through it all.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association lends community support, and its Executive Director Adrianne Johnson underscores their objectives: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to promote this burgeoning industry in the South and encourage participation. Experience Southern oysters, support local farmers, and savor the difference.”
Despite the many hurdles faced, Ballard from Calusa speaks for all the farmers: “There’s nothing I would exchange this job for, even a million dollars.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US version).
