Those familiar with oysters know that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their delicious shellfish. Lovers of oysters rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast while hailing the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when it comes to the oysters hailing from the Southeast, there’s often skepticism, with many turning their noses up at what they perceive as inferior options from warmer waters. I’ll admit, I was once among the skeptics.
That changed unexpectedly when I tried Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs striving to elevate the reputation of Southern oysters, create economic opportunities for their communities, and improve local ecosystems.
They graciously invited me to spend a couple of days on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I eagerly made my way to the waters of both the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: Gulf Expedition
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. Alongside him is his youthful associate, Reid Ballard, who captains their boat to their leasehold as Smith shares how he and his wife Maura stumbled into the oyster farming journey, thinking, “Why not?”
“Our family has an affinity for seafood, so it made sense,” Smith explains, motioning toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “And the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast primarily utilizes “off-bottom” techniques in estuarine areas, where tides continually refresh the aquatic environment. Floating cages venture ahead, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main objective is to harvest. Extracting a cage and hauling out a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. Marine life flourishes around the cage structures, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish all around. As Smith observes, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are sifted through a rotating perforated cylinder, separating smaller oysters and channeling those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be allocated to a local conservation initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering the wild populations crucial for these waters’ health. Smith delineates the difference: “cultivation” serves for consumption, while “restoration” aids the ecosystem.
This somewhat laborious process of sorting and handling opens up conversations about their lifestyle and motivations. Ballard recalls the drive behind his work: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has really opened my eyes to the ongoing efforts needed to keep our environment healthy.”
Smith concludes with a thought: “It’s a joy and a privilege to operate a business that brings happiness to so many. Do you ever see anyone eating oysters without a grin?”
Day two: Atlantic Waters
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides across the clear waters, she shares her long-standing interest in aquaculture, which began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center as a teenager. Her Bachelor of Science degree supports her passion for her career. “Being on the boat in the fresh morning air, surrounded by ospreys, dolphins, and manatees taking a breath is simply delightful,” she says.
Back at the dock, her team dons slickers and begins to separate and sort the oysters; the damaged ones are tossed into shallow waters, where various fish species congregate to feed. Mariano notes the local advantages that stem from their farming operations, explaining, “Oysters provide a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for young organisms; our farm is indeed its own little ecosystem. We have also created numerous jobs in our community for individuals of all ages.”
The Challenges Ahead
Environmental mortality events and complex regulations present ongoing challenges, but the weather remains the most daunting concern. Hurricanes can destroy entire harvests; Smith from Calusa experienced a year’s worth of labor wiped out by Hurricane Helene. “It requires tenacity, effort, creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We simply navigate around or through obstacles and continue moving forward,” he notes.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association stands by local farmers, and their Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, emphasizes their goals: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most determined, innovative, and hardworking individuals I have encountered. Our mission is to support this burgeoning industry in the South and encourage people to engage. Sample a Southern oyster, support local growers, and experience the difference.”
Despite the many hurdles, Ballard from Calusa confesses on behalf of his peers: “I wouldn’t exchange this profession for anything.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
