For those familiar with oysters, the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, the mention of Southeastern oysters often elicits skepticism, with people dismissing them as subpar offerings from warmer waters. Full disclosure: I was once among the skeptics.
My perspective changed dramatically after an unexpected encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At the Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the image of Southern oysters, adding value to their communities, and making environmental impacts.
I received kind invitations to spend a few days working on their farms. With rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I set out to explore the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
On a picturesque morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His partner, Reid Ballard, takes us by boat to their leasehold, as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura essentially stumbled into oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“My family enjoys seafood, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith explains, waving towards the sparkling water and clear skies. “Not to mention, the office view is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries where tides frequently enrich the waters with nutrients. Floating cages filled with mesh bags of oysters at various growth stages bob in front of us.
The main task for today is harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a compressed bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. Various marine life cling to the cage, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish all present. “Our farm has become like a floating reef,” Smith observes.
The oysters are poured through a rotating perforated cylinder, which helps to separate the smaller ones from the harvest-ready ones. Some of the smaller oysters are set aside to be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at enhancing wild populations essential for maintaining healthy waters. Smith makes a distinction: “cultivation” is meant for consumption, while “restoration” serves ecological needs.
This somewhat monotonous task of sorting leads to discussions about personal motivations. Ballard shares, “Raising an animal that captures carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat development has opened my eyes to the ongoing efforts needed to sustain our environment.”
In Smith’s words, “It’s incredibly rewarding to have a business that brings joy to so many. Seriously, do you ever see anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I’m greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides across the clear waters, she shares her longstanding fascination with aquaculture, dating back to her days as a teenage volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her passion for her career. “I cherish the early mornings on the boat, soaking in the sounds and scents… the ospreys, the dolphins, the manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team puts on their gear and begins sorting; damaged oysters are tossed into the shallows, where numerous fish species gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the advantages their farm brings to the community. “The oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat for young organisms; the farm truly acts as a self-sustaining ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve generated numerous jobs for people of all ages in our community.”
The challenges
Facing mortality events and complex regulations can prove challenging, yet the weather poses the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa once faced the complete loss of a year’s work due to Hurricane Helene. “It’s all about perseverance, hard work, creativity, and adaptability. We continuously find ways to push through,” he shares.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides essential community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers embody some of the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We strive to elevate this promising industry in the South and encourage people to get involved. Try a Southern oyster, back a local farmer, and savor the distinct taste.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa reflects, “I wouldn’t exchange this profession for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
