Familiarity with oysters likely brings to mind the northern shores of the United States, celebrated for their exceptional shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hama’s from the West coast also have their devoted fans.
However, when the topic shifts to Southeastern oysters, you might witness disapproving reactions, with people scrunching their noses and shaking their heads. Second-rate oysters sourced from warm waters? That’s a firm “no” for my ice bed platter. I must admit, I was previously part of that skeptical crowd.
But then, my perspective shifted dramatically after I tried Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South conference in St. Augustine, I encountered a devoted group of dynamic entrepreneurs committed to reshaping the Southern oyster’s reputation, boosting their communities’ economies, and improving local ecosystems.
They graciously invited me to spend a few days on the oyster farms. With rubber boots packed and sunblock applied, I eagerly made my way to the waters of both the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: On the Gulf
The early morning sun shines brightly as Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young partner Reid Ballard navigates us toward their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife, Maura, unintentionally ventured into oyster farming, simply thinking, “Hey, we can do that!”
“Our family is passionate about seafood, making it a natural choice for us,” Smith states, gesturing towards the stunning waters and clear skies. “Besides, the view is unbeatable.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming takes place off the bottom in estuaries where tidal movements constantly replenish nutrients. Floating cages in front of us contain mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
Today, our primary focus is on harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. Various marine life sticks to the cages, with crabs, small fish, and seaweed everywhere. As Smith notes, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder, which separates smaller oysters and channels those ready to be harvested. Some of these smaller oysters will be sent to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to aid the wild populations essential for maintaining ecological balance in these waters. Smith makes a clear distinction: “cultivation” focuses on consumption, while “restoration” is about ecological health.
This meticulous sorting process offers a chance to delve into the personal motivations behind this lifestyle. Ballard shares his passion: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, cleans our waters, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the ongoing effort needed to keep our environment pristine.”
“In this line of work, discovering a business that can bring such joy to people’s lives is truly a privilege,” Smith reflects. “Tell me, do you ever see photos of people eating oysters without smiles?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish as we dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As we glide over the crystal-clear waters, Nicolette shares that her fascination with aquaculture dates back to when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at 14. A Bachelor of Science degree supports her commitment to this fulfilling career. “I adore being out on the water during the early mornings, relishing the sounds and smells… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she explains.
Upon our return to the dock, her crew gears up to start sorting and separating oysters; any damaged ones are tossed into shallow waters, where various fish eagerly feed. Mariano ponders the local benefits of their farm: “The oysters provide an incredible vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; our farm essentially acts as a mini-ecosystem. Moreover, we generate numerous job opportunities for our community across all ages.”
Overcoming Challenges
While facing mortality events and regulatory complexities are part of daily life, the unpredictable weather poses the greatest obstacle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost a whole year’s production to Hurricane Helene. “Success in this field requires persistence, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We just keep pushing through and find a way,” he explains.
Backed by the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, community support thrives. Executive Director Adrianne Johnson articulates their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest working and most innovative individuals I know. We aim to empower this phenomenal emerging sector in the South and welcome everyone to join us. Experience a southern oyster, support local farmers, and enjoy the difference.”
Amidst the challenges, Ballard from Calusa reflects the sentiments of many farmers, stating, “I wouldn’t trade this job for a million dollars.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US version).
