If you’re even somewhat familiar with oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern US coasts are famous for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West receive equal admiration.
However, bring up the oysters from the Southeast, and you’re likely to see expressions of disdain—noses wrinkled, lips tightened, and heads shaking. So-called inferior oysters from warmer waters? Not on my plate surrounded by ice. I admit, I was once among those skeptics.
Then, a delightful discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida changed my outlook dramatically. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to improving the reputation of Southern oysters, providing value to their communities, and promoting environmental sustainability.
After some warm invitations, I spent a few days working on the farms. With rubber boots packed and sunblock applied, I eagerly made my way to the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: In the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their lease, while Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura accidentally ventured into oyster farming, exclaiming, “We could do that!”
“My family has a love for seafood, so this felt like a natural direction for us,” Smith notes, gesturing towards the radiant waters beneath the pristine sky. “And, honestly, the office view is unbeatable.”
Much of the oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in estuaries, where tides constantly refresh nutrients in the water. Floating cages filled with mesh bags housing oysters at various growth stages bob in the waves ahead of us.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Retrieving a cage and extracting a flattened bag turns out to be quite the workout. Sea life abounds, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish mingling around the cage structures. “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef,” Smith comments.
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates the smaller oysters, directing those ready for harvest. Some of the tiny oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative aimed at supporting wild populations essential for the ecological balance of this region. According to Smith, there’s a distinction to be made: “cultivation” focuses on consumption, while “restoration” emphasizes environmental health.
The somewhat monotonous yet necessary process of sorting and scraping lends itself to reflections on this lifestyle. Ballard shares his commitment: “Nurturing creatures that capture carbon, purify water, and foster habitat growth has opened my eyes to the immense work still needed for environmental preservation.”
Smith encapsulates the experience: “It’s a joy and a privilege to be involved in a business that brings so much joy to people. Have you ever captured a moment of someone eating oysters devoid of a smile?”
Day two: In the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide over the clear waters, Nicolette shares her longstanding fascination with aquaculture, ignited during her early teens as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor’s degree aligns perfectly with her passion for her career. “I love being out on the water early in the morning, absorbing all the sounds and scents… the ospreys, the dolphins, the manatees popping up for air,” she expresses.
Back at the dock, her crew readies themselves in rain gear, separating and sorting the oysters; any damaged ones are tossed into the shallow waters, attracting various fish species, creating a feeding frenzy. Mariano highlights the local benefits derived from the farm: “The oysters establish an incredible three-dimensional vertical habitat for young organisms; the farm is its own unique ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated numerous jobs for community members of all ages.”
Facing challenges
Weather poses the most significant challenges, with hurricanes wreaking havoc on farms; at Calusa, Smith experienced a year’s worth of efforts destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “Resilience, hard work, creativity, and quick-thinking are necessary. We just learn to adapt and persevere,” he remarks.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides essential community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We strive to elevate this emerging industry in the South and invite everyone to partake. Sample a Southern oyster, support local farmers, savor the difference.”
Despite the numerous obstacles, Ballard of Calusa reflects the sentiments of his peers: “I wouldn’t swap this job for anything else.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
