If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, you’re aware that the northern US coasts are famous for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the East’s Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while the West boasts Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, bring up Southeast oysters, and you might be met with scoffing and raised eyebrows. “Inferior oysters from warmer climates? They’re not welcome on my ice platter.” I’ll confess: I was one of those skeptics.
Then, an unexpected introduction to Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, transformed my perspective. At an Oyster South conference in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of passionate entrepreneurs determined to rebuild the Southern oyster’s reputation, deliver economic benefits to their communities, and improve local ecosystems.
I was graciously invited to spend a couple of days working on the farms. Equipped with rubber boots and generous applications of sunscreen, I eagerly made my way to the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
First Day: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning in South Tampa Bay, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me warmly. His young colleague, Reid Ballard, navigates us toward their leasehold. Smith reveals how he and his wife Maura serendipitously stumbled into the world of oyster farming, exclaiming, “Hey, we should try that!”
“My family has a passion for seafood, so it made sense to explore this path,” Smith explains, gesturing towards the sunlit waters and clear skies. “Plus, the job scenery is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries where the tides consistently refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages adorn the surface, housing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main focus is harvesting. Hauling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be demanding work. The sea life clinging to the cages—seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish—provides a vibrant backdrop. As Smith points out: “Our farm resembles a floating reef.”
The oysters are sorted through a rotating mesh cylinder, separating the smaller ones and directing the harvest-ready oysters out. Those smaller oysters are earmarked for donation to the local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, which supports the wild populations crucial for the ecosystem’s health. Smith distinguishes the two: cultivation serves for consumption, while restoration aims at environmental health.
The somewhat monotonous nature of sorting provides an opportunity for personal reflections. Ballard shares his motivation: “Cultivating marine life that captures carbon, cleans the water, and facilitates habitat growth has truly opened my eyes to the ongoing efforts needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the joy of the work: “Creating a business that brings joy to people’s lives is incredibly rewarding. Do you ever see anyone frowning while savoring oysters?”
Second Day: On the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the crystalline waters, Nicolette shares her lifelong passion for aquaculture, sparked when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. Coupled with her Bachelor’s degree, her love for the profession shines through. “I adore being out on the boat in the early mornings, experiencing the sights and sounds of nature: ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team dons their slickers, sorting and separating oysters, discarding damaged ones into the shallows, where a variety of fish eagerly swarm to feed. Mariano reflects on the local advantages of the farm: “The oysters provide an extraordinary vertical habitat for juvenile species; the farm is indeed an independent ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve created numerous job opportunities for local residents of all ages.”
Challenges Faced
While navigating complex regulations and mortality events can present challenges, the weather remains the principal concern. Hurricanes can be devastating; just this past year, Smith at Calusa lost a full year’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We simply find a way to navigate through and keep moving forward.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most dedicated, innovative, and hardworking individuals I know. Our goal is to champion this burgeoning Southern industry and invite more people to participate. Experience a southern oyster, support local farmers, and appreciate the unique flavor.”
Despite various hurdles, Ballard from Calusa echoes the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “There’s nothing I would trade this job for, not even a million dollars.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
